We only had 20km to go... and an easy 20, comparatively speaking. But boy, was it hard!
After 4.5 weeks of getting up early and hiking, my feet were telling me they needed a break. The last two nights I had awoken to pain in my arches and the overwhelming desire to wriggle my legs in the wee hours. I had promised them I would stop in Santiago... no more carrying a backpack everyday, the choice of shoes, sitting in a bus to go to Finisterre and some quiet time to appreciate their efforts and to heal.
I'm not catholic but did want to attend the 12 noon mass for Pilgrims. I had earned my blessing!!! That meant an early morning. Pierre and I were out the door at 6:25am and were joined by Marcelo and Neel soon after. The woods were dark and the hills, rolling. Intermittently, we happened upon souvenir sellers and more frequently, solicitations... accommodation, tours, taxi, stamps (Pilgrim credentials) etc.
At one coffee stop, a mini bus pulled up out front, a woman got out and stamped the passports of 20 people, before driving off. The van was empty. I thought the Camino in itself made us better, less judgemental people, until I see stuff like this. At the end of the day it matters little to my journey and doesn't change my accomplishment that some people "skip the boring or difficult parts", but it does make me realize 2 things: Some "pilgrims" don't want the journey, just the certificate, for whatever reason. And secondly, I'm still the same, flawed human being I was at the beginning. Working on being less judgemental will be a lifelong effort. Go figure! 😀
It was another gorgeous Galician day and I'll never tire of being grateful for our weather these last 2 weeks.
The first sign of Santiago was the airport at 10km. On short final, a jet cruised in just over us. We were literally at the end of the runway! My first tears came here. So familiar. So close to completion. Soooo incredibly tired. Today was my big day and I was ready.
As you enter Santiago, you first walk through 5km of newer city. People are going about their business like normal. They don't know I've walked 800km over the last 32 days. They have no time or inclination to hear about my achy feet, now healed blisters, tooth issues, sleep deprivation and fatigue. To them, I'm probably just another smelly Pilgrim. I may have walked 2000km to get here, or just the last 10km - it doesn't matter. And if you are a Pilgrim who didn't walk for strong personal reasons, this ambivalence could be shocking or disappointing. (After all, we live in the Facebook era... And have been trained to notice and care when people "like" our accomplishments, lunch plate, new haircut etc!)
Bagpipes played as I walked under a bridge into the old town and main square with cathedral. Those tired feet almost did a jig. It was 12 noon and the pilgrim mass was about to start. No backpack allowed! We stashed our packs for €2.50 near the church and hustled in.
Inside the cathedral, it was standing room only. It was less bright and a bit cooler. My feet were really aching and I hadn't eaten much all day, so 25 minutes later when Pierre and I both couldn't take one more minute of stone underfoot, and needed a snack and a place to sit, we snuck outside to eat chocolate in the square. Our friends joined us 30 minutes later. They broke the news to us that the flaming incense ball had been swung. Crap!!! I needed to see that to complete my journey and it seems to be hit and miss when it happens... I'll have to go to mass again to catch it!
The afternoon, spent exploring Santiago slowly, was full of reunions. Pilgrim friends we had not seen in days, weeks or even a month, began arriving or were spotted roaming the city. The evening culminated in a group tapas and wine event that was nothing short of chaos! Much of this city seems to be a little frenzied. Or maybe I'm just used to sleepy Galician village villages now?
Anyway, unlike a lot of people, I already find the charm and history of Santiago compelling. I'm looking forward to a bus tour to Finisterre and Muxia tomorrow though. A complete change to the way I have traveled the last 4.5 weeks. Then a few days of rest and relaxation in Santiago.
I need some time to transition back to my non-Camino life. And to really take in all the events of the last few weeks....
After 4.5 weeks of getting up early and hiking, my feet were telling me they needed a break. The last two nights I had awoken to pain in my arches and the overwhelming desire to wriggle my legs in the wee hours. I had promised them I would stop in Santiago... no more carrying a backpack everyday, the choice of shoes, sitting in a bus to go to Finisterre and some quiet time to appreciate their efforts and to heal.
I'm not catholic but did want to attend the 12 noon mass for Pilgrims. I had earned my blessing!!! That meant an early morning. Pierre and I were out the door at 6:25am and were joined by Marcelo and Neel soon after. The woods were dark and the hills, rolling. Intermittently, we happened upon souvenir sellers and more frequently, solicitations... accommodation, tours, taxi, stamps (Pilgrim credentials) etc.
 |
| Pierre and I: Shadows cast by the headlights of a souvenir van at 7:30am in the woods! |
At one coffee stop, a mini bus pulled up out front, a woman got out and stamped the passports of 20 people, before driving off. The van was empty. I thought the Camino in itself made us better, less judgemental people, until I see stuff like this. At the end of the day it matters little to my journey and doesn't change my accomplishment that some people "skip the boring or difficult parts", but it does make me realize 2 things: Some "pilgrims" don't want the journey, just the certificate, for whatever reason. And secondly, I'm still the same, flawed human being I was at the beginning. Working on being less judgemental will be a lifelong effort. Go figure! 😀
It was another gorgeous Galician day and I'll never tire of being grateful for our weather these last 2 weeks.
The first sign of Santiago was the airport at 10km. On short final, a jet cruised in just over us. We were literally at the end of the runway! My first tears came here. So familiar. So close to completion. Soooo incredibly tired. Today was my big day and I was ready.
As you enter Santiago, you first walk through 5km of newer city. People are going about their business like normal. They don't know I've walked 800km over the last 32 days. They have no time or inclination to hear about my achy feet, now healed blisters, tooth issues, sleep deprivation and fatigue. To them, I'm probably just another smelly Pilgrim. I may have walked 2000km to get here, or just the last 10km - it doesn't matter. And if you are a Pilgrim who didn't walk for strong personal reasons, this ambivalence could be shocking or disappointing. (After all, we live in the Facebook era... And have been trained to notice and care when people "like" our accomplishments, lunch plate, new haircut etc!)
Bagpipes played as I walked under a bridge into the old town and main square with cathedral. Those tired feet almost did a jig. It was 12 noon and the pilgrim mass was about to start. No backpack allowed! We stashed our packs for €2.50 near the church and hustled in.
Inside the cathedral, it was standing room only. It was less bright and a bit cooler. My feet were really aching and I hadn't eaten much all day, so 25 minutes later when Pierre and I both couldn't take one more minute of stone underfoot, and needed a snack and a place to sit, we snuck outside to eat chocolate in the square. Our friends joined us 30 minutes later. They broke the news to us that the flaming incense ball had been swung. Crap!!! I needed to see that to complete my journey and it seems to be hit and miss when it happens... I'll have to go to mass again to catch it!
The afternoon, spent exploring Santiago slowly, was full of reunions. Pilgrim friends we had not seen in days, weeks or even a month, began arriving or were spotted roaming the city. The evening culminated in a group tapas and wine event that was nothing short of chaos! Much of this city seems to be a little frenzied. Or maybe I'm just used to sleepy Galician village villages now?
Anyway, unlike a lot of people, I already find the charm and history of Santiago compelling. I'm looking forward to a bus tour to Finisterre and Muxia tomorrow though. A complete change to the way I have traveled the last 4.5 weeks. Then a few days of rest and relaxation in Santiago.
I need some time to transition back to my non-Camino life. And to really take in all the events of the last few weeks....
1 comment:
Congratulations. You're incredible.
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