Camino de Santiago Day 5: Cizor Menor to

The squeaky pilgrim has indeed discovered how to exit a crowded dorm room before the sun is up, without announcing myself to those that remain sleeping. It comes down to having systems in place - tried and tested procedures that are likely to yield similar results each time.

My procedure involves mostly getting ready the night before. My laundry is packed and at the foot of the bed I leave out the bag that contains sleep sack, toiletries, sleeping clothes etc.  I lay out my clothes for the next day too.

In the morning I dress and stuff my sleep sack before getting off the bunk.  I then carry the pack and the overnight bag out of the room and finish putting everything together where I'm not disturbing folks. It takes about 15 minutes to pack, Vaseline my feet, put sunscreen on and lace my boots.

Then I escape into the dark streets and locate the Camino signs to rejoin the trail. This is my alone time.

Today I climbed over farm lands and followed a trail that rose steadily until the view was commanding - back towards Pamplona, a backdrop of mountains and patchy clouds that caught the first light of day and accentuated the sunrise. It was drizzling a little and I stopped to put on rain jacket, pants and pack cover.

I was pretty hungry by the time 6km had passed and was lured into a passing cafe/pension by a large sign tauting good coffee, omelette and pastries. The sign was in English and in I went. The lady who served me, faked a smile (barely) and talked about me, not to me, with her employee. I was self conscious and sat quietly eating my tortilla. Soon enough, several of my new Camino friends arrived.  I watched the serving lady greet them warmly and tell them she wished I spoke more Spanish. One of them told me afterwards that the cafe owner said I should make more effort. I felt judged, alone and unwelcome. Moving on down the road was easy. Letting go of the feeling was not. Party of me was so annoyed that she had purposefully attracted English speakers with her sign, had elected not to learn a word of English herself and then sat there, voicing criticism at/about travellers doing their best.

I guess today was about learning to let go of feelings that don't serve me. It might take the rest of the week!

Tony the turtle and I hiked on and off together all day. We took each other's picture at the top of a steep hill... a spot you might remember Martin Sheen trudging past in the movie "The Way".

I really enjoyed his company and thoughtful conservation.

Here's what I learned about Tony:

• He is addicted to panoramic photography. 
• When he gets a bit tired, his Spanish might feature the occasional Italian word.
• He doesn't speak Italian. 
• We share similar philosophy about human beings and their ability to self heal. 
• He is addicted to panoramic photography!

We ended up in a small albergue in Mañeru. Just 12 travelers, one dorm room and an enchanting communal dinner. I do love these tiny villages with their narrow streets, large churches and quietness. 

Every night I'm just a little bit more tired than the last. 

Camino de Santiago Day 4: Larazoaña to Cizor Minor

It was dark in my room.  From the lower bunk I reached for my t-shirt.  That's not my t-shirt, it's wet. That IS my t-shirt! And my long sleeved top, discarded in the night, my wet hiking pants and my sopping pack! Dear God! Camelback malfunction!!!

There was a puddle on the floor and I was immediately grateful it didn't extend all the way to another pilgrim's stuff.

I dragged my pack into the bathroom to regroup. Everyone else remained asleep. New plan: Wear my other t-shirt, deal with wettish pants,  forego the sleeves today, wear rain shell to protect myself from wet pack and use extra socks as gloves, 'til actual gloves have dried!

Conclusion... I must have forgotten to turn off the camelback at the mouth piece, then rested pack on mouthpiece, opening it and causing drippage to the tune of about a liter.

Just last night at dinner I mentioned I had worn all gear except the rain stuff. I can tick jacket off the list now.  This will not spoil my day!

I set off in the dark,  clad in my hot pink jacket, with hood pulled over my head to protect me from the wet headlamp strap. My crew-sock-clad hands had to relearn how to hold walking poles. For 4km I hiked alone, in the dark, through the woods. For the most part this didn't bother me, although it was difficult to find Camino signs in the dark and at times I doubted myself.

At precisely 7:22 AM, the entire bird population of the woods began singing in chorus. I knew sunrise was imminent and it was now also warm enough to take the socks off my hands. I then found the cafe that had been recommended and indulged in cafe con leche and espinacas tortilla.

Despite this mornings misfortune,  I'm happy and grateful. Not at all annoyed, frustrated or upset.  That's improvement.

I didn't see a single other pilgrim until Chuck and Sue, Tony and John caught up with me at the cafe. It was lovely to see them and we enjoyed each other's now familiar company along the trail to Pamplona. .. a trail that was part concrete, some on the road (with cars), along ridges, past farmyards and on stoney, dusty paths.

After lunch together in the old part of the city,  John checked into his hotel and Sue and Chuck went wandering.  Tony and I headed to the next village and checked into our tranquil albergue in Cizor Menor.

I spent an evening with a group of ladies from around the globe.  We ate salami, sheep cheese and local bread.  Washing it all down with too much red wine.

I floated off to bed around 9 PM - my state of being didn't go unnoticed by Tony - and I swam off to sleep shortly thereafter. 

Camino de Santiago Day 3: Burguete to Larazoaña

My day started at 6:38 AM. Pretty sure the 6:30 alarm was rigged for Colorado time 'cause I didn't hear it!

The hotel is an old building with wood stairs and thin walls.  As I tip-toed down the stairs in my boots at 6:55 AM I was ACUTELY aware of the racket I was making. ..and embarrassed!  Not only could I not step softly on the wood, but the soles of my boots had developed squeaks (loud ones) since yesterday!

I escaped into the night and found the local cafe open for business.  Café con Leche and a croissant. Perfect. All while taking in the local and international news and obtaining a weather forecast. My Spanish is hardly better than 4 days ago but it looked like Obama was up to something, the Pope was up to something, Real Madrid played soccer recently and it was going to be sunny in my vicinity. Time to hike!

In the pitch black, I made my way down the road. In front of me I spotted another early morning pilgrim.  In less than 60 seconds I realized she had lost "the way" and apparently so had I. Thank goodness for elderly Basque men who give good directions in the wee hours!

Tema was from Hungary. We hiked together for most of the rest of the day and I loved her zen company. Like me she was alone, on her first Camino and enjoyed stopping for pictures.

As the sun rose it bathed meadows and trees in pink light, made the full moon appear bigger, gave rise to the early morning mist. Yeah it was cold. But the earth is most magical first thing in the morning and you can't beat the pictures!

Meet Tema (from Hungary) and Tony (from Switzerland).  Tema and I stopped at a cafe for breakfast about 4km down the road.  I ran into Hela and Yelte there too. What a great morning.  I was filled with positive energy.

Today was the first day I felt reflection just come to me.  And with the rhythmic sounds of my own squeaky footsteps, came lots of gratitude. My "escape" and the opportunities that it brought, the chance to turn off real life and sink into detachment is all very much a gift. I find myself increasingly grateful for the healthy relationship I'm in, for the kind, caring, sweet and genuine person that Mark is. In his company I am a more relaxed human being. I recognize the balance we have and should appreciate it every day, not just on Camino!

The kilometers fell away beneath our feet. I'd be lying if I said "and suddenly we were there". The constant up and down was taking its toll. All around me, tired faces, slight limps, pilgrims in plazas with feet removed from boots. Day 3 is challenging. You can't blame it on the mountains, but it's a tough walk and took me by surprise! Apparently it took everyone by surprise.

In particular, the last 6km from Zubiri to Larazoaña was brutal.  Felt like 10km. Along the way I visited a 13th century church that has been bought and is being restored by a South African couple. Touches of Free Masons and pagan symbols all adorn it. So interesting! There is nowhere I'd rather be.

Some more pictures...

Pilgrims, I recommend San Nicolas Alburgue in Larazoaña. Small rooms and fairly new. Internet a bit too slow for uploading pictures to blog, but you can't have it all.

Camino de Santiago Day 2: To Roncesvalles

Wild animals under my bed woke me around 2 AM. Bear? Mountain lion? Nope... just promises being delivered.  My 81 year old friend doesn't just snore though, he has sleep apnea. After stopping breathing for 15-20 seconds, he roars back to life with a gasp and a snort.  It's frightening but also astonishing. How the heck is he NOT waking himself up?

There is nothing quite like loud snoring to annoy you in the night.  I honestly thought I had divorced the only person who gasped,  snorted and thrashed in his sleep and didn't wake himself up. I was wrong. It was bringing back memories I could live without and emotions that reveal my selfish side.  I wanted to poke this kind old guy with my hiking poles and then pretend I was still asleep! Instead I rolled over and reminded myself that I signed up for this... that snoring and dorm rooms are part of the Camino experience and I knew about both going in.

He gradually subsided, but was replaced by a duet from the ladies on the lower bunks. One I would consider softer, more rhythmic in her song and if I tried hard, I could pretend she was my cat, purring with contentment. Her friend however, proved that women really can do anything just as well as men. She rattled and shook the room for the best part of the next hour and I found myself not only with my sweatshirt tied around my ears, but also my extra long pillow! It wasn't a complete solution, but apparently it worked well enough to get me back to sleep.

Mr Mountain Lion threw the main light on at 6:30 AM and announced "time to wake". I was mentally ready for day 2 to start... and start it did, after a mediocre breakfast.

7:15 AM in Orisson - sunrise!

My hike began at 7:55 AM

One of the first points of interest was this Virgin Mary statue at the top of a long climb, on a large rock pile. She appears to be directing most of her attention (blessings?) to Camino pilgrims, as evidenced by all her shells, which are the pilgrim symbol, so I offered her my thanks before heading up the trail. 

On top of the world. For now, but not for long, not a cloud in the sky.  A simply gorgeous day for this part of the trek and it appeared the earnest warnings I received from the welcome office in Saint Jean, would not come to pass on my pilgrimage.

What are they?  Let's see... 

• Don't take just snacks, take 3 full meals in your pack. 
• Be sure to note the number on the post that you last walked past, so you can tell emergency services where to rescue you. 
• You may have to use the emergency huts for shelter... be prepared so you know where they are. 
• Leave early in the morning so you have time to get to the other side before dark falls. 
• Above all else, let us at the pilgrim office scare the crap out of you, so it's hard to look forward to hiking without feeling anxiety too!

I was now hiking with Rickard, Sue and Chuck. Adventurous souls, all 3 open to whatever the Camino would teach them. 

This is what it looks like when you pass from France to Spain. I may have missed it if my notes hadn't mentioned the cattle guard.  Begs the question. ...does France not want Spanish cows entering, or is it the other way round? 

The road got a bit muddier, the clouds were blowing in.  

One could not help but notice slugs of unusual size. It didn't deter us from lunch, perched high in the Pyrenees, rugged up against the cold wind, enjoying all we had packed and this would be the only 15 minutes of no walking the day would bring! 

Among my favorite finds... Several emergency towers. Push button direct connect to emergency service, WiFi gratis and cell reception if you stood close enought and accepted their terms of service!  LOL. Well done Spain. Thanks for taking care of your pilgrims.  :) 

Yep, I texted Mark with an update and my GPS coordinates. 

Then it was downhill through the dark woods to Roncesvalles. 3 km of steep descent, rocky terrain and feeling it in the knees. Neither Sue, Chuck nor I remembered the pilgrim guide had told us to use the road (longer but safer) instead of the track. Oops!

Arriving at Roncesvalles just after 1 PM, we ran into this sign, touting Martin Sheen's movie, The Way. Remember the scene where he is in the large dorm room and his Dutch friend is rustling in the night for a snack?  That was here. 

Roncesvalles is a tiny village with a giant hotel and refuge. It's famous for the 183 beds in one dorm room, thing.  After spending a night with 3 snorers out of 5 roommates, I was reluctant to play the odds and wind up in a room of 90 snorers. Call me crazy! Instead, I chose the Chuck and Sue Plan. Walking 3 extra kilometers to the next village - Burguete - for a room at the albergue that also hosted Earnest Hemingway, many years ago. It's amazing how ones tired feet can summon the energy for 2 more miles when a private bathroom,  private bedroom is offered up! I almost ran here.  

 Shortly after socal in Burguete, the temp speed,  winds picked up and I watched the Pyrenees disappear under menacing clouds.

Glad to be through the mountains and heading for Zubiri tomorrow.