Considering that I only slept so-so, I thought the hike went pretty well today. It was, after all, another 27km up and down the hills of Galicia.
We passed through Sarria bright and early, greeted by multitudes of Pilgrim stores. You could literally arrive here with nothing and start your Camino... and many people do! This small city is 110km from Santiago and the requirement for obtaining a Camino completion certificate is walking the last 100km, yeah, some people do that! My opinion... since you asked.... a pilgrimage is not the same as a certificate. After 4 weeks hiking village to village and trying to glean a hint of understanding about catholicism, I confess I'm at a loss to understand the religion at all. But the history, the relics, rituals and traditions fascinate me, none the less. This church was a remarkable symbol of power, money and influence in its day. Judging by the empty pews, deteriorating buildings and lack of up and coming priests, that day has passed.
I digress. The road climbed or of Sarria, winding up into the hills, 1000' or so. We followed 100 kids "on Camino" with little back packs and energetic legs fueled by junk food! I congratulated Pierre on surviving 32 years as a teacher and told him he'd leaving get extra brownie points for that at Mass in Santiago.
It was a cloudy, misty morning. You could see the moisture - taste it, even. Pea soup that reminded me of Nantucket.
We passed through Sarria bright and early, greeted by multitudes of Pilgrim stores. You could literally arrive here with nothing and start your Camino... and many people do! This small city is 110km from Santiago and the requirement for obtaining a Camino completion certificate is walking the last 100km, yeah, some people do that! My opinion... since you asked.... a pilgrimage is not the same as a certificate. After 4 weeks hiking village to village and trying to glean a hint of understanding about catholicism, I confess I'm at a loss to understand the religion at all. But the history, the relics, rituals and traditions fascinate me, none the less. This church was a remarkable symbol of power, money and influence in its day. Judging by the empty pews, deteriorating buildings and lack of up and coming priests, that day has passed.
I digress. The road climbed or of Sarria, winding up into the hills, 1000' or so. We followed 100 kids "on Camino" with little back packs and energetic legs fueled by junk food! I congratulated Pierre on surviving 32 years as a teacher and told him he'd leaving get extra brownie points for that at Mass in Santiago.
It was a cloudy, misty morning. You could see the moisture - taste it, even. Pea soup that reminded me of Nantucket.
Honestly though, we have been INCREDIBLY fortunate with the weather. Galicia is known for rain, but day after day, the damp mornings give way to sunshine, vibrant colors and long afternoon shadows. Nothing feels nicer than sun on the face, listening to birds tweet and walking dry paths.... that would otherwise be a slippery, odiferous mess of manure and clay on rock!
And then... we hit double digits! 99km to Santiago. Just 4 weeks ago it was 800+.
My smile gives me away. Camino is hard. The blisters have healed, feet take on 30km without complaining, teeth are back to normal and the reaction to fig over-indulgence has subsided, but I'm tired. No, exhausted. Every day a little more so. I can hike all day, but find it incredibly hard to tolerate inconsiderate roommates, cold weather, repetitive menus or washing my own laundry, by hand, in cold water. Traipsing through Spanish villages is amazing. The lifestyle of a Pilgrim is wearing thin. The boys were right... I'm a princess. (They called my fancy stay at the parador in León, "Dallice's Palace".)
It was lovely to arrive at Portomarìn and discover a small room with few roommates, a hot shower and washing machine! 😀
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