Monday, September 28, 2015

Camino de Santiago Day 3: Burguete to Larazoaña

My day started at 6:38 AM. Pretty sure the 6:30 alarm was rigged for Colorado time 'cause I didn't hear it!

The hotel is an old building with wood stairs and thin walls.  As I tip-toed down the stairs in my boots at 6:55 AM I was ACUTELY aware of the racket I was making. ..and embarrassed!  Not only could I not step softly on the wood, but the soles of my boots had developed squeaks (loud ones) since yesterday!

I escaped into the night and found the local cafe open for business.  Café con Leche and a croissant. Perfect. All while taking in the local and international news and obtaining a weather forecast. My Spanish is hardly better than 4 days ago but it looked like Obama was up to something, the Pope was up to something, Real Madrid played soccer recently and it was going to be sunny in my vicinity. Time to hike!

In the pitch black, I made my way down the road. In front of me I spotted another early morning pilgrim.  In less than 60 seconds I realized she had lost "the way" and apparently so had I. Thank goodness for elderly Basque men who give good directions in the wee hours!

Tema was from Hungary. We hiked together for most of the rest of the day and I loved her zen company. Like me she was alone, on her first Camino and enjoyed stopping for pictures.

As the sun rose it bathed meadows and trees in pink light, made the full moon appear bigger, gave rise to the early morning mist. Yeah it was cold. But the earth is most magical first thing in the morning and you can't beat the pictures!






Meet Tema (from Hungary) and Tony (from Switzerland).  Tema and I stopped at a cafe for breakfast about 4km down the road.  I ran into Hela and Yelte there too. What a great morning.  I was filled with positive energy.

Today was the first day I felt reflection just come to me.  And with the rhythmic sounds of my own squeaky footsteps, came lots of gratitude. My "escape" and the opportunities that it brought, the chance to turn off real life and sink into detachment is all very much a gift. I find myself increasingly grateful for the healthy relationship I'm in, for the kind, caring, sweet and genuine person that Mark is. In his company I am a more relaxed human being. I recognize the balance we have and should appreciate it every day, not just on Camino!

The kilometers fell away beneath our feet. I'd be lying if I said "and suddenly we were there". The constant up and down was taking its toll. All around me, tired faces, slight limps, pilgrims in plazas with feet removed from boots. Day 3 is challenging. You can't blame it on the mountains, but it's a tough walk and took me by surprise! Apparently it took everyone by surprise.

In particular, the last 6km from Zubiri to Larazoaña was brutal.  Felt like 10km. Along the way I visited a 13th century church that has been bought and is being restored by a South African couple. Touches of Free Masons and pagan symbols all adorn it. So interesting! There is nowhere I'd rather be.

Some more pictures...





Pilgrims, I recommend San Nicolas Alburgue in Larazoaña. Small rooms and fairly new. Internet a bit too slow for uploading pictures to blog, but you can't have it all.

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