The 7 am morning sky appeared to "want to" clear. The sun was almost visible through the patchy cloud layer... then gone. Flurries took it place.
I was sleep deprived. An accumulative thing. Every day for the last 5 days, I have not met my sleep quota. One night was spent in economy class as we transited Canadian airspace, the next 3 have been in hotels - with late nights and early mornings.
It is getting increasing difficult to wake, rally and organize myself and it's definitely not good news for my appetite. And yet... I WILL find a way to eat pickled herring for breakfast again this morning!
Today's adventure is all about visiting with the Sami people of northern Sweden and spending time with their reindeer. :-) I waddled out to the shuttle bus, wearing almost everything I own, underneath the coveralls that Lights Over Lapland provides.
We had heard that the day would be cold and our adventure was mostly outdoors. Our driver laughed. He was wearing a cotton looking sweatshirt, cargo pants and sneakers. Half way through the 45 minute trip, he cracked a window. Clearly his bare hands on the steering wheel were getting too hot!
Snow was swirling across the road in front of us. Harsh and unforgiving, while magical at the same time.
Reindeer. A few of them were corralled in anticipation of our visit. A bit timid, but with doe eyes and cow-like noses, they are adorably cute quickly became friends. Mostly likely we had just "bought" their friendship with our handfuls of lichen! Whatever works.
And check out their amazing, snowshoe-like feet! Reminded me of a camel actually.
After catching one, harnessing it and convincing it to follow me, we were off on a walk through the woods together. Our Sami guide had make a point to tell us that the reindeer is not taking us for a walk, we are taking it. Therefore, it should stay behind, not lead the way. Mine needed a bit of convincing who was in charge, then he fell into line.
At the end of the trail, we had what can only be described as the adventure of a lifetime. First of all, I found myself at the reins of a "one horse open sleigh" that was being pulled by a reindeer named Ferrari. So... Ferrari is a bit competitive and despite the couple in front of me getting a healthy head start, Ferrari bolted to catch up and tried to overtake them as we rounded a steep corner. The snowy trail is really only wide enough for one reindeer sleigh and I found myself using ALL of the precautionary tactics we had just learned. IE I was leaning over the side of the sleigh trying to keep it from throwing me out, much like you see during a yacht race!!! 45 degrees bank... Yeah, thats a steep turn!
Needless to say, my fellow tourists were somewhat afraid of being in the sleigh pulled by Ferrari after that and the Sami host/guide had to accompany a few of them. Pretty funny all in all. I enjoyed it immensely and would do it again. Ferrari was aptly named and I admired his passion for sleigh-pulling. When he was done, his tongue was hanging out and he was panting. Now THAT is 100% effort!
We also learned to lasso today. I made it to the "finals" in the impromptu lasso competition but was beaten by a German guy, who's prize was a sleigh ride back from this trail head to the teepee, where lunch was served.
Ok, I'm almost embarrassed to say this, but I confess we were served reindeer for lunch and I didn't give it a second thought. The Sami are wonderfully gentle folks. They eat reindeer that are old and limited in use. When their teeth wear down, a reindeer will starve so the Sami slaughter them first. It's practical and humane and the meat is not tough like you'd expect an older animal to be.
The Sami customs are ancient. They 'borrow' the land, rather than own it. They are grateful for a less complicated way of life and don't appear to be too bitter by the treatment that their people have received in years gone by, by the Swedish government. Like many native peoples, they have over time, suffered by being treated as lesser citizens; not able to go to public schools, trade freely etc. Today they are successfully blending the old life with new technology like GPS trackers on animals. They are free to marry outside the Sami people and also to work in whatever vocations suits them... Not everyone is meant to be a reindeer hearder and the Sami elders understand that.
Life as Sami is not easy and not getting any easier. This winter has been harsh. Snow came in September and has remained. That means the reindeer struggle to find food and the Sami have to care for them more than normal to make sure they survive the season. Wolverines and other predators (incl. eagles) are constantly killing reindeer and it is against the law to hunt the predators. In fact it's even against the law to carry your gun with you so even if you come upon a predator attacking your reindeer, there is little that can be done in the moment,
Our guide was a philosophical young man with a keen sense of humor and in his stories, there was evidence of trauma born out of this life or his inherited memories. I was really grateful for the chance to hear him speak, to learn about Sami culture and ways of life and to frolick with his reindeer.
There was a gentle wisdom in him, for instance when someone asked how many reindeer he owned this was his reply:
"Asking how many reindeer one Sami family owns is akin to asking how much money a person makes, in your culture. It's not considered polite conversation. What I can tell you is that there are 15 families in this area and between them all, they own about 8,000 reindeer."
I thought he beautifully handled the question and while he didn't answer it, he did give us an idea of how many reindeer are running around there as well as remind us that every culture has social conventions and etiquette... we are not so different.
Night 3 of Aurora hunting.
:-( It didn't go the way that my undying optimism had convinced me it would. The sky wasn't immediately cloudy, but the openings were not big and judging by the fuzziness of the stars, there was a lot of humidity in the air. (Turns out about 76%)
We set up cameras in a wooded area and waited. The moon rose. The stars twinkled. Oliver took crazy portraits of us in the dark to pass the time. A good time was had by all, but for 4 of the 6 in our group, tonight was the final chance to view an Aurora before leaving from Kiruna tomorrow. There was some disappointment in Mother Nature, for sure.
I was sleep deprived. An accumulative thing. Every day for the last 5 days, I have not met my sleep quota. One night was spent in economy class as we transited Canadian airspace, the next 3 have been in hotels - with late nights and early mornings.
It is getting increasing difficult to wake, rally and organize myself and it's definitely not good news for my appetite. And yet... I WILL find a way to eat pickled herring for breakfast again this morning!
Today's adventure is all about visiting with the Sami people of northern Sweden and spending time with their reindeer. :-) I waddled out to the shuttle bus, wearing almost everything I own, underneath the coveralls that Lights Over Lapland provides.
We had heard that the day would be cold and our adventure was mostly outdoors. Our driver laughed. He was wearing a cotton looking sweatshirt, cargo pants and sneakers. Half way through the 45 minute trip, he cracked a window. Clearly his bare hands on the steering wheel were getting too hot!
Snow was swirling across the road in front of us. Harsh and unforgiving, while magical at the same time.
Reindeer. A few of them were corralled in anticipation of our visit. A bit timid, but with doe eyes and cow-like noses, they are adorably cute quickly became friends. Mostly likely we had just "bought" their friendship with our handfuls of lichen! Whatever works.
And check out their amazing, snowshoe-like feet! Reminded me of a camel actually.
After catching one, harnessing it and convincing it to follow me, we were off on a walk through the woods together. Our Sami guide had make a point to tell us that the reindeer is not taking us for a walk, we are taking it. Therefore, it should stay behind, not lead the way. Mine needed a bit of convincing who was in charge, then he fell into line.
At the end of the trail, we had what can only be described as the adventure of a lifetime. First of all, I found myself at the reins of a "one horse open sleigh" that was being pulled by a reindeer named Ferrari. So... Ferrari is a bit competitive and despite the couple in front of me getting a healthy head start, Ferrari bolted to catch up and tried to overtake them as we rounded a steep corner. The snowy trail is really only wide enough for one reindeer sleigh and I found myself using ALL of the precautionary tactics we had just learned. IE I was leaning over the side of the sleigh trying to keep it from throwing me out, much like you see during a yacht race!!! 45 degrees bank... Yeah, thats a steep turn!
Needless to say, my fellow tourists were somewhat afraid of being in the sleigh pulled by Ferrari after that and the Sami host/guide had to accompany a few of them. Pretty funny all in all. I enjoyed it immensely and would do it again. Ferrari was aptly named and I admired his passion for sleigh-pulling. When he was done, his tongue was hanging out and he was panting. Now THAT is 100% effort!
We also learned to lasso today. I made it to the "finals" in the impromptu lasso competition but was beaten by a German guy, who's prize was a sleigh ride back from this trail head to the teepee, where lunch was served.
Ok, I'm almost embarrassed to say this, but I confess we were served reindeer for lunch and I didn't give it a second thought. The Sami are wonderfully gentle folks. They eat reindeer that are old and limited in use. When their teeth wear down, a reindeer will starve so the Sami slaughter them first. It's practical and humane and the meat is not tough like you'd expect an older animal to be.
The Sami customs are ancient. They 'borrow' the land, rather than own it. They are grateful for a less complicated way of life and don't appear to be too bitter by the treatment that their people have received in years gone by, by the Swedish government. Like many native peoples, they have over time, suffered by being treated as lesser citizens; not able to go to public schools, trade freely etc. Today they are successfully blending the old life with new technology like GPS trackers on animals. They are free to marry outside the Sami people and also to work in whatever vocations suits them... Not everyone is meant to be a reindeer hearder and the Sami elders understand that.
Life as Sami is not easy and not getting any easier. This winter has been harsh. Snow came in September and has remained. That means the reindeer struggle to find food and the Sami have to care for them more than normal to make sure they survive the season. Wolverines and other predators (incl. eagles) are constantly killing reindeer and it is against the law to hunt the predators. In fact it's even against the law to carry your gun with you so even if you come upon a predator attacking your reindeer, there is little that can be done in the moment,
Our guide was a philosophical young man with a keen sense of humor and in his stories, there was evidence of trauma born out of this life or his inherited memories. I was really grateful for the chance to hear him speak, to learn about Sami culture and ways of life and to frolick with his reindeer.
There was a gentle wisdom in him, for instance when someone asked how many reindeer he owned this was his reply:
"Asking how many reindeer one Sami family owns is akin to asking how much money a person makes, in your culture. It's not considered polite conversation. What I can tell you is that there are 15 families in this area and between them all, they own about 8,000 reindeer."
I thought he beautifully handled the question and while he didn't answer it, he did give us an idea of how many reindeer are running around there as well as remind us that every culture has social conventions and etiquette... we are not so different.
Night 3 of Aurora hunting.
:-( It didn't go the way that my undying optimism had convinced me it would. The sky wasn't immediately cloudy, but the openings were not big and judging by the fuzziness of the stars, there was a lot of humidity in the air. (Turns out about 76%)
We set up cameras in a wooded area and waited. The moon rose. The stars twinkled. Oliver took crazy portraits of us in the dark to pass the time. A good time was had by all, but for 4 of the 6 in our group, tonight was the final chance to view an Aurora before leaving from Kiruna tomorrow. There was some disappointment in Mother Nature, for sure.
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