Let's start with some kudos for the journey north this morning.
Taxi -> Train -> Flight -> Shuttle van -> Dog sledding. All before 4 pm.
But eh.. the taxi driver was a dick this morning at 6am and I started the day all negative, bitter and sad. Even after a high speed train to the airport (and I do love trains) and a super friendly Swedish TSA agent, I had trouble putting a smile on my face.
Honestly, travelling during the Coronavirus, I expected cancellations, spare seats on planes and some fear/precautionary behavior. What I didn't think about was change to the interactive aspect of travel. Normally as a single person, I'm accosted by strangers almost immediately. This time around, it has been a bit lonely. One side effect of not wanting to be contaminated is that people are engaging in less spontaneous conversation. I'm a chatty person, so I'd be lying if I said this part has been fun for me.
Getting to Abisko National Park...
So at the airport today, I noticed I was one of about 3 women at my gate. The other 150? Men in their 30s and 40's. Naturally I was curious and because it's Monday morning, I had to assume they were going to work up there.
A quick Google search and I had the answer - I think.
Kiruna is home to the world's largest and most modern underground iron ore mine. The ore body is 4km long, 80m wide and up to 120km thick. It reaches depths of up to 2km. I also discovered that in 2007 it was agreed the town had to be relocated 3km to the north because of mining related subsidence. The relocation is taking place over the course of decades and will likely be finished around 2040... and will take with it, about 21 of the most significant buildings from the original Kiruna.
I am also finding during this trip that Sweden has a long history defending itself. During WWII both the Allies and the Third Reich were keen to control the mine district as it played an important economic role. German occupation of Denmark and Norway were to a large extent, motivated by the wish to deny their enemies the iron that was critical for wartime production of steel.
Kiruna. Landing here was an eye opener. Imagine "Ice Road Truckers" and you'll understand the nature of the geography. Rolling hills with trees - mainly birch, some pine, all snowy. 3000' mountains that provide opportunity for winter activities. White roads, white, flat, desolate expanses that were watery lakes in the summer. Lots of snow plowing, piling and transporting equipment lined up at the airport. A small town feel but with a hardy, industrious population.
My ride to Abisko National Park had been prearranged and it wasn't long before I was sharing a shuttle bus with 3 Scandinavian gals - falling asleep as they chattered.
I had time to check in, get oriented and have lunch before being picked up for dog sledding. My first Lapland adventure!
The dogs are amazing. They howl and whine with anticipation of pulling our sled. Occasionally biting at and jumping on each other, despite being firmly fixed to the "line" in front of the sled. I found the whole experience to be nothing short of delightful. The sled glided over fresh snow, quietly and smoothly. We stopped occasionally to let the dogs cool down (it was 32 degrees, which is at least 20 degrees warmer than is good for them) and during those moments, seized the chance to cuddle up with them, pet them, take selfies and generally lavish them with praise. They don't get treats, but our Danish guide assured us their "treats" are attention and kind words and that is how they stay motivated.
There was a little tea/coffee break in a teepee, complete with cinnamon roll and then we were off again!
I was beat. The last 3 days taking a toll on me. But there was just going to be 2 hours until dinner with "the group" - 6 of us booked with Lights Over Lapland for the next 3 days. Then a short photography lesson and intro to the gear we would be issued, before heading out to spot the Aurora.
Patchy clouds! WTH?
Ok, so tonight was not the best Aurora spotting that ever existed. We didn't see nothing, but it was a bit of a lame turnout from the sky, if I do say so myself. In fact the very best Aurora sightings were from the van as we flew along the icy road at almost midnight... when the cameras were all stowed in the luggage department!
But for you... my best efforts (my first efforts) at photographing the Aurora Borealis:
What an amazing place Swedish Lapland is turning out to be. Im still in awe that today I accomplished so much... flying here, dog sledding, Aurora hunting and moose viewing, to name but a handful.
Can't wait til tomorrow!
Taxi -> Train -> Flight -> Shuttle van -> Dog sledding. All before 4 pm.
But eh.. the taxi driver was a dick this morning at 6am and I started the day all negative, bitter and sad. Even after a high speed train to the airport (and I do love trains) and a super friendly Swedish TSA agent, I had trouble putting a smile on my face.
Honestly, travelling during the Coronavirus, I expected cancellations, spare seats on planes and some fear/precautionary behavior. What I didn't think about was change to the interactive aspect of travel. Normally as a single person, I'm accosted by strangers almost immediately. This time around, it has been a bit lonely. One side effect of not wanting to be contaminated is that people are engaging in less spontaneous conversation. I'm a chatty person, so I'd be lying if I said this part has been fun for me.
Getting to Abisko National Park...
So at the airport today, I noticed I was one of about 3 women at my gate. The other 150? Men in their 30s and 40's. Naturally I was curious and because it's Monday morning, I had to assume they were going to work up there.
A quick Google search and I had the answer - I think.
Kiruna is home to the world's largest and most modern underground iron ore mine. The ore body is 4km long, 80m wide and up to 120km thick. It reaches depths of up to 2km. I also discovered that in 2007 it was agreed the town had to be relocated 3km to the north because of mining related subsidence. The relocation is taking place over the course of decades and will likely be finished around 2040... and will take with it, about 21 of the most significant buildings from the original Kiruna.
I am also finding during this trip that Sweden has a long history defending itself. During WWII both the Allies and the Third Reich were keen to control the mine district as it played an important economic role. German occupation of Denmark and Norway were to a large extent, motivated by the wish to deny their enemies the iron that was critical for wartime production of steel.
Kiruna. Landing here was an eye opener. Imagine "Ice Road Truckers" and you'll understand the nature of the geography. Rolling hills with trees - mainly birch, some pine, all snowy. 3000' mountains that provide opportunity for winter activities. White roads, white, flat, desolate expanses that were watery lakes in the summer. Lots of snow plowing, piling and transporting equipment lined up at the airport. A small town feel but with a hardy, industrious population.
My ride to Abisko National Park had been prearranged and it wasn't long before I was sharing a shuttle bus with 3 Scandinavian gals - falling asleep as they chattered.
I had time to check in, get oriented and have lunch before being picked up for dog sledding. My first Lapland adventure!
The dogs are amazing. They howl and whine with anticipation of pulling our sled. Occasionally biting at and jumping on each other, despite being firmly fixed to the "line" in front of the sled. I found the whole experience to be nothing short of delightful. The sled glided over fresh snow, quietly and smoothly. We stopped occasionally to let the dogs cool down (it was 32 degrees, which is at least 20 degrees warmer than is good for them) and during those moments, seized the chance to cuddle up with them, pet them, take selfies and generally lavish them with praise. They don't get treats, but our Danish guide assured us their "treats" are attention and kind words and that is how they stay motivated.
There was a little tea/coffee break in a teepee, complete with cinnamon roll and then we were off again!
I was beat. The last 3 days taking a toll on me. But there was just going to be 2 hours until dinner with "the group" - 6 of us booked with Lights Over Lapland for the next 3 days. Then a short photography lesson and intro to the gear we would be issued, before heading out to spot the Aurora.
Patchy clouds! WTH?
Ok, so tonight was not the best Aurora spotting that ever existed. We didn't see nothing, but it was a bit of a lame turnout from the sky, if I do say so myself. In fact the very best Aurora sightings were from the van as we flew along the icy road at almost midnight... when the cameras were all stowed in the luggage department!
But for you... my best efforts (my first efforts) at photographing the Aurora Borealis:
What an amazing place Swedish Lapland is turning out to be. Im still in awe that today I accomplished so much... flying here, dog sledding, Aurora hunting and moose viewing, to name but a handful.
Can't wait til tomorrow!
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