Varanasi, here we come

Actually I expected more trouble arriving at the main Varanasi train station. Lonely Planet (the travelers Bible) seemed to think we would be tricked, robbed and harassed to death, shortly after exiting the train station. Or at the very least, long before finding our guest house in the maze of vehicle-free (in theory) alleys that are designed to get you lost and invite you to buy colorful, but needless things.

But after being dropped off by our auto-rickshaw about 10 minutes from the guesthouse and having several attempts at getting directions, we finally found Eden Halt and met our delightful host, Sanjay. His 4 bedroom guesthouse is family owned and overlooks Raja Ghat, a relatively peaceful temple on the banks of Mother Ganga (The Ganges River).

Time to take in the chaos that only a Hindu festival on the holy river could provide.

A view from the water aboard Shiva’s boat was next for us. I feel bad even saying it, but it was a peaceful break from the dozens of beggars. Young and old women alike, touting sickly looking babies and pinching them for the “extra-unhappy” effect. Kids pulling at our sleeves and trouser legs, hand to mouth, gesturing hunger and demanding we remedy the problem. Meanwhile puppies, skinny and itchy, squeal underfoot, cows and their calves yield to no one and one eye must always, always be on the ground…just in case the smell doesn’t alert you first!

Varanasi is alive. From the diverse people, their intensely colorful garb to the funeral Ghat, or as Shiva referred to them; the burning bodies. Despite the cold, cold water, men and women are dunking themselves repeatedly in the river that looks like it needs cleaning more than they do. Yes, for the most part this is religious and ritualistic, but for those without water at home, it really is a daily bath too. The Ganges also provides dish and laundry washing facilities, and the shores for which to float off your candle and flower offering.

If you are Hindu and lucky enough to die right here in Varanasi, you can be assured that you are now free from rebirth!

I am quite sure there is no other place like this on earth and the 16 hour train journey back to a place that captured my imagination in 1998 was definitely worth it.

The next day...

How can a day of wandering, shopping, eating and people watching be so tiring? I am exhausted, but in my defense we did start the day at crack-o-dawn. Umm-Hmmm…Before the sun rose we were down at the Ganges watching other people bath, chant and add to the pollution.

Highlights included; Those that got up before us; Those that bathed, despite the cold;

The needy and disadvantaged; And of course...tasty street food.

(My cast iron stomach is still in tact, touch wood.)