We have spent the last 2 days in Pucon, Chile. A gorgeous little tourist town, complete with many of my favorite South American things; patisserie, outdoor activities, laundromat and fine weather. What can I say...Im easily pleased!
Mt Villarica towers over the town. Perfectly cone shaped with a hearty helping of old and new snow near the top. For 45,000 Chilean Pesos (about $65 US) a tour company will pick you up at the campsite (at dark-o´clock), provide rucksack, crampons, jacket, crampons, trousers with tear-proof butt, plastic butt guard, gloves, ice axe and helmet. And once you have added lunch, water, camera and dry clothes to the bag, its time drive an hour or so to the start point.
In all fairness I do have to admit that the first part of the climb is available by chair lift sometimes. I took the opportunity to save my legs (which were still asleep) from an hour of uphill slog, since the fact it was operating was obviously a sign from God.
The walk wasnt that bad. Yes, there were times I thought I was going to die if I fell, but all in all, the 4 hours of steep ascent and slippery ice/snow was quite peaceful. The chocolate I felt compelled to eat at every water stop probably helped too.
Once at the top the view was to die for... so worth the walk. For miles in every direction were Chilean hills, snow capped mountains and lakes. Visibility was perfect and the sun that threatened to scorch us coming up, was a welcome addition.
As if all this wasnt entertainment enough, Rachel and I had just ventured to the inner edge of the crater when the volcano began to grumble thunderously and more smoke puffed out. In unison we screamed and ran towards the out edge of the crater, despite just discussing how tired our legs were. In the event of iminent erruption, we obviously felt we could out run a river of lava!!! All those who watched us, were in hysterics. Apparently every 5 minutes or so this happens.
In fact, Mt Villarica hasnt errupted since 1984. And while there was little to no warning of the last erruption, there is now serious seismic activity monitoring equipment on the job. None-the-less, the crater we ate lunch around drops about 60m before hitting lava and up until about 2 years ago this lava was completely visible from our view point, as it spat molten rock against the side of the crater. All this is made even more surreal by breathing the sulfur tasting and acidic gas as it blows around the top. The whole experience was breathtaking!
The adrenalin part of the volcano climbing experience was yet to come though. A four hour hike up was reduced to a one and a half hour downhill challenge. So... the fastest and (?)safest way to descend is apparently by something I would describe as Butt-Luge. Into grooves carved in ice fields you sit. Ice axe in hand (for braking), butt on plastic butt guard to decrease friction (increase speed) and heart in mouth. I was not the only one to lose control from time to time... but I believe I was the only one to come off a corner land backwards and belly-down, still racing out of control down an ice field, towards rocks and a large drop. Since this was the appropriate time to stab the ice axe into the ice and bring yourself to a stop, I did just that... almost! In reality, my ice axe did stick into the ice, but it then ripped out of my hands and I was left barrelling down a mountain without any brakes at all. Oh no!
Since I am now here, safely typing from an internet cafe, you can assume I didnt lose my life on Mt Villarica. Or even break an arm. Actually I managed to fling my arms and legs around sufficiently to slow myself before the others at the bottom helped stop me.
As you can imagine, I did sleep well last night (after several glasses of wine) and today Im exploring town before we head out to Santiago tomorrow. Its a long, 800km, drive... and its the last day of my overland adventure. My flight home from Santiago is in just 3 days.
I am filled with bittersweet feelings and so many memories. Sad to leave a group people who were crazy strangers to me just 8 weeks ago and a continent that has brought endless adventure, sights and sounds.
Very happy to be coming home... to a wonderful husband and best friend, who I have missed so much.
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