Im recording blood O2 stats for the purpose of medicating as needed without having to think too much... which is damn near impossible it appears when blood oxygen dips into the 80's for me.
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| I've seen worse. I've been worse! |
Our hotel (San Augustin) puts on quite a breakfast. Yippee!
Strong coffee with hot milk, detox juice blend (in prep for another Pisco Sour evening?) cold cuts, cereal Peruvian style, eggs, veggies, fruit, baked goods and more!
Alex was waiting in the lobby for us at 8am. We enjoyed seeing his smiling face once more.
Our first stop was Qorikancha temples. Historically where the Incas worshiped or celebrated (or both) the rainbow, lightning, mountains, stars and planets, earth, water, moon and sun. They seemed to have a firm grip on reality when you think about it. Our place here on earth and in the universe is very small. We are NOT the center and everything wasn't put there for us to use and abuse. Instead we should be grateful for the gifts and blessings that the natural world showers on us, for it is these gifts that determine really, if our lives are sustainable.
Qorikancha while initially Inka, was taken and "converted" by the Spanish. The gold was stolen, the stones removed and temples torn down or built over - a common way to remove all trace of the religion that you are hoping to replace with Catholicism! In this case, they also plastered over the giant stones that made up the foundation, walls and doorways. While pretty in its own way, the white walls with their painted scenes covered over Inca history and culture.... until 1950 when a big earthquake shook the city, destroying much of the spanish workmanship and revealing, once more, the Inca masonry.
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| Alex and Teresa |
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| Wiracocha's niche... perfectly positioned to catch sunrise rays |
Today on our tour, it was interesting to see a little of both still here. But absolutely fascinating to learn of the intelligent design that these temples were a part of.
Sexy Woman! Well that is how we remembered it because it really is pronounced (almost) that way and because this is quite the empowered girlfriend vacation. If you want to Google more about it, then you'll need to spell it correctly... Saqsaywaman.
This Inca citadel is located on the northern outskirts of Cusco. It took 60-70 years and 20,000 people to remodel in the 13th Century as it was originally built by the people of the Killke culture. The guy in charge was Pachacutec. He was the "Alex the Great" of the Incas and started the Golden Age.
Q'enquo... A temple to worship Mother Earth. I liked it from the get-go. Considered a holy type place, Q'enqo is the site of sacrifice and mummification!
Did you know that when "sacrifices needed to be made" the little bodies were in fetal position?
Alex, ever the thorough guide, demonstrates how the mummified bodies were found...
And shortly after that, I was ready for some baby animal moments.
Next stop: Pukapukara
This was a way station, serving many needs but primarily as a military checkpoint, a grainery for supplying food to the army and a messenger's relay post (pony express type deal). They built these about every 8-10km along the Inca trails.
You know how when you go on tours in foreign countries, you are often subjected to mandatory sales stops? Well, forget that with Alex. The only store we ended up in today was with our blessing and consultation prior to the van pulling up.
This textile place was amazing. They gave us tea made from herbs collected outside and a little class on how to tell baby alpaca from "maybe alpaca". All across Peru, there seem to be folk selling alpaca products, but its really hard to tell if it's the real deal or if, once washed at home, you'll find it was some sort of soft acrylic.
Baby Alpaca: It's the first cut of the hair. Each alpaca gets one clipping in its life that counts as baby alpaca hair. After that, when it grows back the hair is just alpaca. Baby alpaca is soft, soft, soft. Much more expensive of course. Alpaca is still a totally nice product, FYI. Warm in the cold, cool in the heat, washes and wears well.
"Maybe alpaca" is not cool to the touch and can look a little shinier.
We explored the gift store, the art that is being created here and watched the process too.
The hanging piece below is a recreation of an Inca computer/recording device. Each strand, knot etc is recording information about life in Inca culture during a certain time. I'd explain it to you, but apparently it has not entirely been figured out yet. All we know is that it's a binary system... like todays computers!
Final thought (wishful thinking) at the textile place: My fav piece. And if I had US $1800 up my sleeve, I might have bought it. GORGEOUS. Yarns are all dyed naturally using colors from plants and the cochineal bug.
Lunch. Some friend of a friend recommended the restaurant Chicha, to us. Alex was kind enough to make a reservation for us by phone, as we toured around this morning, so Kelli, Teresa and I found ourselves dining like royalty at lunch time.
Mmmmm... Alpaca curry. (Don't judge me. I am trying new things, but have not been able to mentally get past eating guinea pig.)
We signed up for a chocolate class in the afternoon. What a hoot! Our teacher's name was Arnold. He was young with signs of mischief in his eyes. Every question was leading or a trick and the class was in tears constantly at his jokes and antics. Arnold, if you ever read this... I think you are a perfect fit for your job. Don't go changing.
We really didn't need antics or sugar to give us the giggles. It seemed we were always one outburst away from pee'd pants anyway, but we so appreciated the sarcasm and showmanship.
In 2 hours we had taken a cacao bean, roasted and peeled it, ground it into paste and made it into hot chocolate. We also learned "recipes" for white chocolate, dark chocolate and milk chocolate, then molded some chocolate of our own. Mine featured coca powder... as you do, at altitude! (Best ever reason for "needing" to eat chocolate.)
As we waited for the chocolate to set, we stopped by a crafty shop down the road. The owner was crocheting hats and welcomed us warmly. She was an Inca shaman, 3rd generation. Before long she got out her grandmothers kit of sacred items/artifacts and began chanting on my behalf. After declaring that my heart was sad, she "took" the sadness from me and wished me a happy life. I felt goosebumps as we left her store.
Last thing for the day... Pisco Sour at the hotel bar before turning in.... of course!
Goodnight, Cusco.
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