Favela

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I had heard about Favelas. Specifically, how not to ever go into one alone, without a proper guide. I may have even seen City of God at some point. But nothing prepared me for this.

A favela is a slum. Poor, dirty, without infrastructure of any kind and completely lawless. Police, ambulance and fire brigade dont come here.

In Brazil, if you live/build on land and stay there for 5 years or more, its legally yours. These people have cleared the side of the hill (with granite under them and now, no trees to hold the soil in place) and built. The next person simply tacks their new structure along side or on top of the last one. No building permits, no architects, no rules at all. They have electricity to some degree, but dont pay taxes or utility bills. Electrical fires are common - due to the haphazard way they steal the electricity and the mass of wiring hanging over each alley.

Alleys are narrow and dark, waste water runs in them, under them and beside them. It smells as only a favela could smell.

The upside... a very strong community. Each relies on the other for child care, mail delivery (no addresses make it difficult!) and most other things. Everything that enters the favela must be carried by hand or on your back. Some dwellings too inaccessable to be able to enter with a fridge or chair on your back, so the neighbors hoist it up and pass it along each home until it reaches the appropriate destination.

Our tour was established 16 years ago with the majority of the proceeds benefiting the favela. A tourism school was set up and teaches local kids to be guides. A safer way for foreigners or even other Brazilians to enter the favela. Without a guide you risk getting lost indefinitely, being robbed fairly quickly or taking pictures of the local drug dealer ... resulting in who knows what. Our guide was 27. He took us up to his house where we could see how the average person lived and get an eye opening view from up on the hill.

This favela did have scenes from City of God shot in it. It is home to between 150,000 and 300,000 people. No-one keeps a record.

I have never been more thankful for my humble little house, and clean water as I was when inside the favela.