Into the Pantanal

The Pantanal is a wetland area the size of France and is in 3 South American countries. This time of year usually sees most of it under water as the rains in the north rush down about 12 large rivers and pool here. However, it has been unusally dry this year and we were able to walk on land!

Our truck was left at a local police station and we packed day-bags to head in for 3 nights. Our accommodation - a farm/poussada. Luxury! It had air conditioned rooms, a pool and bar tab!

From here we rode horses, did jungle safaris, pirhana fished and boat safaris. It was also our first real chance to do laundry and get to know each other better. (Drinking games? Who me?)

The Pantanal was also the site of our first serious truck injury. Archie took a dive during a volleyball game and landed his knee on the sharp edge of a concrete border, slicing it to the bone and requiring a 2 hour ride to the ``local`` hospital for 15 stitches. Once the medication kicked in, he was smiling again! He has since managed to get a hold of crutches and can almost keep up!

Sunrise in the Pantanal

IMG_1951, originally uploaded by dallicetylee.

The locals

This little guy was feeling the effects of a very dry wet season and decided a cold shower was in order. He politely hopped out when asked.

It´s Hammock Time

The view from my hammock shortly before my 2 hour nap each afternoon. I dont think it gets more relaxing than a cool drink, ipod, hammock and shade on a hot day.

And We're Off!

IMG_1667, originally uploaded by dallicetylee.

The pre-departure meeting was last night. I met all 20 others that I would be living with for the next 2 months and so far, so good. No tears.

This morning we awoke to see 'Felicity' parked out front of the hotel, all spic and span and ready to go...
This custom Scania overland vehicle seats 23 in the back. Mostly in a U shape, with seat bottoms that lift off to reveal deep wells. A very "secret squirrel" way to hide all that valuable (and soon to be messy) gear.

Underneath the rubber flooring are floor boards that also lift up, and spaces beneath store everything from truck bits to dried soup to a medical kit and a safe - which shall hence forth be referred to as "the fridge" for security reasons.
I.e. We pull up at a campsite and instead of someone yelling "the safe is open... does anyone need to put anything away?" we yell, "the fridge is open". Get it?

The sides of the truck are also crammed with custom storage spaces. Here we find all the cook gear, including stove and tables, as well as tents, shovels and little camp stools.

This is going to be fun!

IMG_1675, originally uploaded by dallicetylee.

Working out in Rio

IMG_1536, originally uploaded by dallicetylee.

Not interested in working out with air conditioning? Prefer a sea breeze? Perhaps you just want the general public to see your muscles?! This is the gym for you...

Dotted around the city, along the beach walks and in the parks you will see these ``outdoor gyms``. Essentially steel bars with formed concrete knobs on the ends, of various sizes. Very convenient indeed!

It almost goes without saying that Brazilians are very comfortable showing skin... no matter what size or shape they are. Admirable. Possibly more admirable if they stopped trying to squeeze themselves into the speedos they wore as children though.

Favela

.

I had heard about Favelas. Specifically, how not to ever go into one alone, without a proper guide. I may have even seen City of God at some point. But nothing prepared me for this.

A favela is a slum. Poor, dirty, without infrastructure of any kind and completely lawless. Police, ambulance and fire brigade dont come here.

In Brazil, if you live/build on land and stay there for 5 years or more, its legally yours. These people have cleared the side of the hill (with granite under them and now, no trees to hold the soil in place) and built. The next person simply tacks their new structure along side or on top of the last one. No building permits, no architects, no rules at all. They have electricity to some degree, but dont pay taxes or utility bills. Electrical fires are common - due to the haphazard way they steal the electricity and the mass of wiring hanging over each alley.

Alleys are narrow and dark, waste water runs in them, under them and beside them. It smells as only a favela could smell.

The upside... a very strong community. Each relies on the other for child care, mail delivery (no addresses make it difficult!) and most other things. Everything that enters the favela must be carried by hand or on your back. Some dwellings too inaccessable to be able to enter with a fridge or chair on your back, so the neighbors hoist it up and pass it along each home until it reaches the appropriate destination.

Our tour was established 16 years ago with the majority of the proceeds benefiting the favela. A tourism school was set up and teaches local kids to be guides. A safer way for foreigners or even other Brazilians to enter the favela. Without a guide you risk getting lost indefinitely, being robbed fairly quickly or taking pictures of the local drug dealer ... resulting in who knows what. Our guide was 27. He took us up to his house where we could see how the average person lived and get an eye opening view from up on the hill.

This favela did have scenes from City of God shot in it. It is home to between 150,000 and 300,000 people. No-one keeps a record.

I have never been more thankful for my humble little house, and clean water as I was when inside the favela.

THE Icon Of Rio

THE icon of Rio, originally uploaded by dallicetylee.

Jesus Christ.
I cant say I remember just how big he is... but he is not to be trifled with.

As we made our way up the steep hill to the top, promises of the best view over Rio danced in our minds. Alas, JC had other plans. Within seconds of arriving the clouds rushed in and darkness fell.

We ended up stuck in a torrential downpour like nothing I have ever experienced, for about 30 minutes. If it weren't for a kind Brazilian man and his umbrella, my backpack (and camera) would have floated back to the hotel!

Sorry guys... there was only room for one!
Perhaps if you'd believed me when I said I saw a puma eating garbage, on the way up here things might have been different.

Local Art

IMG_1516, originally uploaded by dallicetylee.

Graffiti is rife in Rio. How they manage to get to the top of the buildings with a spray can in hand, I don't know, but some of it might actually be considered art!

This door was at the end of the street in central Rio where I stayed. Apparently the area where several high profile rap videos have been shot! I will take Archie's word for that... since I'm not even sure where you would go to find out something like that.

Room with a view!

IMG_1547, originally uploaded by dallicetylee.

I never said a good view.

But I can say it is never dull. There is always a shady looking local hanging out below, a flood either coming up the street or going down, or simply a Brazilian party in full swing.

And if I'm not mistaken, I have a rare granite tiled bathroom with new (european style) glass door shower in this impressive room.
Oooh... Aaahhh.