We left the Ocean Endeavour mid-morning on the 3rd. Steve, Kelli and Todd all went straight to the airport. Gail hung with us in Ushuaia until after lunch then also made her way north.
Team Antarctica was officially disbanded and while I enjoyed every minute just Mark and I, I also felt some form of lonely as the group split and by midnight, was thousands of miles apart again. Even later, as I write this there is an emotional twang that is hard to explain. We had shared something so magnificent. Getting there, being there, witnessing each others giddiness - it was all better together.
I have experienced tears of gratitude (and will likely continue to do so) for these 5 who willingly and enthusiastically joined me in the most arduous journey, the most expensive vacation, the longest countdown... to Antarctica. A voyage to the coldest, driest, windiest, most exquisite and protected place on earth would NEVER have been the same without them and I will never forget that.
So... Ushuaia. A little different than how I remember it in 2009 but still quaint, not really gentrified, colorful and interesting. Artistic and outdoorsy. A gateway to wildlife viewing, national park exploring and of course, Antarctica cruising.
We spent the day shopping for gifts. During the darkest days of pet-sitter stress, many of our friends had stepped up and gone above and beyond. There was never going to be a gift that measured up or represented our gratitude aptly, but we also wanted them to know we appreciated them.
Later that night we took Gail's recommendation and ate at Maria Lola. Great view, fabulous food, cozy and elegant atmosphere. How lovely!
Back at the hotel, an early night was in order. I could still feel the boat rocking gently beneath me. Waking in the night I found it hard to recall where I was and why. My brain was starting to transition back to the "real world" with internet and responsibilities and having to organize our own days again!
On the 4th, it was all about getting some walking in, making the most of our last hours and relaxing because tonight, we were sleeping upright in economy class or transitioning across Buenos Aires by car during the wee hours. It was not going to be pretty!
This was our boutique hotel on the hill. Worth the walk!
We found interesting places to eat. Not the least of which was this Triumph Cafe. I could almost imagine starting an epic motorbike trip from Tierra del Fuego and taking it all the way to North America. In another life, perhaps. My thoughts went to my British motorcycle guru/friend, Roger, who would have been in heaven here.
This dog knows where the good stuff is. Argentinian beef, cooked to perfection over the coals. The way he waited patiently outside lead me to believe it had and would pay off.
A little bit of silly is good for the soul!
And just like that, our time here in Ushuaia was over.
We departed Tierra del Fuego around 8:30pm, a three and a half hour flight to BA. It took most of the 5 hours on the ground there to gather bags, transfer across town, recheck bags and clear security again. The flight to Panama City was about 8 hours I think. I was thrilled to have clear weather most of the flight and spent way too much time staring out the window at the Amazon jungle over Brazil and Colombia. It's beautiful! Vast and thick and alive, with tributaries feeding smaller rivers, feeding larger rivers.
When the river changes direction, the jungle quickly fills the gap again... takes back the real estate! It feels like the natural order of things.
Somewhere near or in the Gulf of Panama came this view of paradise and shortly thereafter, we landed at Panama's Tocumen Airport.
Sleep was always going to be a bit of a moving target today. We only had 90 minutes in Panama before the third and final flight, direct to Denver - barely enough for a bathroom break!
Then... Welcome home to us! Denver turned on it's famous blue sky. Kathy and Mike picked us up at the airport with smiles.
We have but 55 hours in Panama. It's more of a scouting trip for future plans than a true vacation in itself. It also serves to break up an otherwise REALLY long journey to the tip of South America.
Denver to Panama City, Panama (not to be confused with Panama City, Florida) is about a 7 hour flight, direct out of Denver. Overnight too. Not to shabby!
We arrived the 18th around 6am. With an early check in and complimentary breakfast all taken care of by 8am, it was time for a quick nap.
Then it was time for a City Tour and Panama Canal lock tour - handily booked way back in July, from my armchair at home - or more likely, sitting up in bed with coffee in hand, one early Saturday morning.
(Ever used Viator.com? I have several times now. It's a gathering place for local tours - whether it be food tours, guided walking or motorized tours, local sights and must see attractions. You can check availability, price and ask questions too. )
Roberto was our guide. He had 20 years experience, a keen wit and was full to the brim with knowledge about the country and city. Lots of history here... colorful, fascinating and all new to me.
We began in the old city... the Colonial part of town. A mish-mash of architecture spanning 400 years but often thrown together (preserved) on one block! Then worked our way around to where the Pacific Ocean meets the Panama Canal.
Once upon a time there was a massively thick wall around this old city. Parts are still left and otherwise, hints of it are seen crossing streets; interrupting the red brick that signifies the "safe" part of town.
When this here fancy hotel underwent gentrification, the architect took images of the graffiti that pre-dated his work and had it turned into some sort of wallpaper to re-line the walls it used to grace. I kinda love it!
Then we enjoyed learning all about the engineering marvel that is the Panama Canal, with the Armador Causeway and great view of the city.
Just like that, Day One was over and we hit the ground running pre-7am on Day Two!
Still seeking to make the most of every warm and rain-foresty minute, we are picked up at our hotel super bright and early for a Panama Canal boat ride all the way to Monkey Isle (near Gamboa) where we called out the monkeys, skimmed the wake of container ships passing through the canal and took photos of all of it.
White-faced capuchin monkey and howler monkeys were just two of the three types we saw.
The little guy pictured above was affectionately named Carlos by our guide. Carlos is solitary... as a lot of capuchin males are if they are not the alpha of the little monkey tribe. He lives on his own wee island and is quick to visit with tourists, posing for pictures and gently accepting salted almonds from Paola (our guide). Carlos has been granted boat-privileges after repeatedly earning the trust of tour operators.
Carlos' nemesis, Daniel, one isle over, has been banned from boats after being found guilty of assault, theft and mischief. Daniel has a more grumpy face and appeared to hold a grudge from about 15 feet away - with water between us and him. Apparently the final straw was when Daniel used both hands to fiercely snatch a fanny-pack from a guest and toss it into the canal. It had the guys credit card in it and since the canal is also home to crocodiles up to 20' long, the credit card was considered gone the second it hit the water!
Howler monkeys, named for their howl-ability, use their vocal gifts to deter predators. Get too close and they can rupture an eardrum - with more decibels than a jet-engine at close range! These are otherwise fairly docile monkeys and are the only ones who don't consider a visit on the boat to be a good time.
I know what you're thinking. Fruit, right? Nope. Not fruit! Just a guy... hanging out in a tree.
They spend the morning munching on leafy goodness and the afternoons high in the canopy, enjoying what appears to be the equivalent of a food-coma!
And last but far from least... the Jefferies monkey.
The rain forest here is alive! Birds, reptiles, insects and monkeys... plants, people and more.
I remain convinced that tucked in there somewhere, away from prying eyes, is the cure for cancer, mental health afflictions and some sort of safer pain management alternative. But even if that is not the case, this beautiful slice of nature is the only home that these creatures have ever known and should ever know. It's precious.
Today I had a good reminder of a lot of things that are easy to forget. I breathed deep. I connected willingly and for a brief time, escaped the stress and challenges that the "real world" was cooking up back home.
Breakfast of local food served at Soberania National Park was a nice touch!
But then again, so was the following educational hike through the Panamanian rainforest.
No-one was more surprised than me that leaf-cutter ants were a highlight of this wee hike. Does anyone else remember that old MacGyver episode where leaf cutter ants were the giant threat? Yeah, that's not true life! (Shocking, I know!) They follow a path of pheromones and will seek to always go around the foot or finger that gets in their way.
These ants walk all the way to the canopy to cut their bits of leaves. They truck them diligently back toward the nest but have to pass quality control to be successful. If the leaf-bits are to dehydrated - no bueno - start again. Bad, right? Actually not the worst case scenario though. If the leaves are contaminated with fungus, guard ants stop them along the way and lead them away to quarantine. The harvesting ant will die from the fungus, then the guard ant (now also contaminated) will die too. Much like the Secret Service, these guard ants will make the ultimate sacrifice for the good of the ant colony.
The end of our time in Panama City was spent sampling baked goods and other foodie delights and gradually processing the disaster otherwise known as "the pet-sitter I arranged carefully before departing Colorado". THAT, my friends, is a blog post in itself and the emotional and health toll related to that stress means it will be slow in forthcoming.... if ever.
We left for Bueno Aires today. The next post will mark the beginning of one of the greatest adventures I have ever signed up for.
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