Jan 3-5: Homeward Bound

 We left the Ocean Endeavour mid-morning on the 3rd. Steve, Kelli and Todd all went straight to the airport. Gail hung with us in Ushuaia until after lunch then also made her way north. 

Team Antarctica was officially disbanded and while I enjoyed every minute just Mark and I, I also felt some form of lonely as the group split and by midnight, was thousands of miles apart again. Even later, as I write this there is an emotional twang that is hard to explain. We had shared something so magnificent. Getting there, being there, witnessing each others giddiness - it was all better together. 

I have experienced tears of gratitude (and will likely continue to do so) for these 5 who willingly and enthusiastically joined me in the most arduous journey, the most expensive vacation, the longest countdown... to Antarctica. A voyage to the coldest, driest, windiest, most exquisite and protected place on earth would NEVER have been the same without them and I will never forget that. 

So... Ushuaia. A little different than how I remember it in 2009 but still quaint, not really gentrified, colorful and interesting. Artistic and outdoorsy. A gateway to wildlife viewing, national park exploring and of course, Antarctica cruising. 

We spent the day shopping for gifts. During the darkest days of pet-sitter stress, many of our friends had stepped up and gone above and beyond. There was never going to be a gift that measured up or represented our gratitude aptly, but we also wanted them to know we appreciated them. 

Later that night we took Gail's recommendation and ate at Maria Lola. Great view, fabulous food, cozy and elegant atmosphere. How lovely!

Back at the hotel, an early night was in order. I could still feel the boat rocking gently beneath me. Waking in the night I found it hard to recall where I was and why. My brain was starting to transition back to the "real world" with internet and responsibilities and having to organize our own days again!

On the 4th, it was all about getting some walking in, making the most of our last hours and relaxing because tonight, we were sleeping upright in economy class or transitioning across Buenos Aires by car during the wee hours. It was not going to be pretty!

This was our boutique hotel on the hill. Worth the walk!

We found interesting places to eat. Not the least of which was this Triumph Cafe. I could almost imagine starting an epic motorbike trip from Tierra del Fuego and taking it all the way to North America. In another life, perhaps. My thoughts went to my British motorcycle guru/friend, Roger, who would have been in heaven here.

This dog knows where the good stuff is. Argentinian beef, cooked to perfection over the coals. The way he waited patiently outside lead me to believe it had and would pay off.

A little bit of silly is good for the soul!

And just like that, our time here in Ushuaia was over. 

We departed Tierra del Fuego around 8:30pm, a three and a half hour flight to BA. It took most of the 5 hours on the ground there to gather bags, transfer across town, recheck bags and clear security again. The flight to Panama City was about 8 hours I think. I was thrilled to have clear weather most of the flight and spent way too much time staring out the window at the Amazon jungle over Brazil and Colombia. It's beautiful! Vast and thick and alive, with tributaries feeding smaller rivers, feeding larger rivers. 

When the river changes direction, the jungle quickly fills the gap again... takes back the real estate! It feels like the natural order of things. 

Somewhere near or in the Gulf of Panama came this view of paradise and shortly thereafter, we landed at Panama's Tocumen Airport.

Sleep was always going to be a bit of a moving target today. We only had 90 minutes in Panama before the third and final flight, direct to Denver - barely enough for a bathroom break!

Then... Welcome home to us! Denver turned on it's famous blue sky. Kathy and Mike picked us up at the airport with smiles. 

And our fur-babies were waiting when we arrived!

Perfection!

Dec 21 and 22: In and About Ushuaia

December 21st.

We made it!

                   

Flying into Buenos Aires was the first reason to celebrate. It wouldn't be long before we'd be meeting up with Steve for the first time since our last Team Antarctica dinner in Boulder. 

                    

I knew Steve would bring the enthusiasm to another level and he didn't disappoint... even at 2am! 

All that anxiety about the possibility of a positive Covid test and getting to there on time etc. quickly vanished as our airplane overflew the Magellan Straight and descended into Ushuaia at 8am. 

The price you pay for this view is turbulence, FYI.

We were beyond excited to regroup with Team Antarctica, and explore a little before embarking on our voyage to the frozen continent, tomorrow afternoon. Lunch and a little Ushuaia and maritime history was the perfect start. It's town with a dark prison past and some unforgiving waters. Excitement and anxiety were building... 

That evening, Kelli, Todd, Gail, Mark and I hoofed it up a steep hill to Steve's hotel, where the "icebreaker" for our cruise was being held. The hike felt good, the view was spectacular and I met a number of people who would go on to become Ocean Endeavour friends. Among them, Lawrence and his wife, Moni. They are New Zealand citizens but originally from somewhere exotic... I want to say the Maldives?! Laurence renamed me, in his words, to something more kiwi! My cruise name is apparently Aurora.  (With a mouthful of braces and a lispy speech impediment, Aurora is actually easier to say than Dallice. I might keep it. Introducing myself has been frustrating and we are meeting dozens of new people down here.)

December 22nd. 

The next day (boarding day) we had some time to pop about in town again before meeting the "cruise bus" which gets you through the entrance to the port and all the way to the gangway.

Rumor had it that we could stamp our passports with an Antarctica stamp! Sure... it's a thing. Not a real thing, since Antarctica is not a country and passport control is therefore irrelevant, but the Tourist Info office is happy to provide the stamps and ink to watch us all deface our government issued travel documents. So we did. With giddy childish giggles to boot! (I love Team Antarctica!!)

Who's impressed with Ushuaia's efforts to feed the free-ranging dogs? This gal.

Some mandatory souvenir shopping, of course. For us, it was the last chance to buy postcards that we'd write and mail from Antarctica. Not cheap or quick, since the only post office is at Port Lockroy - a British station that sends mail home "once in a while". Once it gets to England it's mailed to it's final destination. If you were on my mind while I was upchucking my way across the Drake a day or two from now, you can expect to get your card (with love) in 3-6 months.

Ok, so I was looking a bit nervous and not exactly on-top-of-world happy in this pic. Boarding in...10!

Our cabin!  #7011

A room with a view.

There was almost a moment where I didn't fret for Wrigley and Rusty, home alone and trapped if the house burned down... and the hens, braving subzero temps as a "bomb cyclone" raged at home. Almost. 

Fingers crossed the cruise would provide enough distraction, stimulation or seasickness to actually lower the stress of being so far away and so not in control. The intense pet-sitter-stress had caused me to grow a little row of cold sores. Geez, I think divorce was the last thing to trigger that!