There are 2 mountains....

Mama Kilimanjaro is the obvious one. 

My personal mountain... the one I didn't know existed, was apparently about flying way outside even the boundaries of my imagination, and taking a leap of faith like I have never done before. The second mountain begins challenging you physically, emotionally and psychologically, the second you commit to the first mountain!

There were tears leading up to our trip to Tanzania. Tears of anxiety and self doubt, tears of relief and pride as I hit training goals and mental milestones. They were nothing compared to the tears that let loose on the trail to the highest point in Africa. I had no idea I held so much water behind my eyes!

To call it a hike seems ... inadequate. The journey to the top of Kilimanjaro is HUMBLING. A lesson - or perhaps a hard slap in the face - in patience, perseverance and compassion.

I imagined that post-summit I would say "I did it!" and "We did it!" but the God's honest truth is that our team of guides, porters, and other support crew members did it. They got little ol' me (and all of us) to 19,300' safely and without them I could not have come even remotely close.

Tools of their trade include but are not limited to kindness like you have likely never experienced, compassion that is genuine and obvious, interpretation of body, face and verbal cues; and through dance and song, the joyful and generous injection of positive energy.  I 100% credit the encouragement and support I received from our Habari Dream Team for the reason I wanted to, and the fact I could, just keep putting one foot in front of the other - in the darkness, in the cold, in the thin air.

The souls that touched mine have forever changed me. The journey has forever changed me.

On the mountain, I overheard crew talking about their clients "becoming true" that is referring to them becoming themselves as they sacrifice things that matter less, to achieve their goal. They seem to have a unique understanding that the trekker has been dreaming and planning this journey for months, years or even decades. With respect, they lean into the fact that this is BIG for us, and hard, and emotional. Every person has a story and none is too small or too big for them to support. Treating us like a gift is weird for me... as I find them to be the gift... the gift I never knew I wanted or needed until I did. And once you see it, you can't unsee it.

From the roof of Africa, Mama Kili spoke to me in a low deep voice about being brave and vulnerable. She answered questions I didn't know I was asking. She convinced me to open a door I was unaware I had locked.

October 18th: Day 8 Kilimanjaro Trek

 5am up and at 'em! (With a little help from Emmanuel!)

We had another 10km/6 miles of downhill to Mweka Gate this morning. All in the jungle! I loved the smell, the gentle light, the flowers and of course the monkeys. 

Goodbye, Mama Kili. I love you!

But perhaps a surprising highlight for me was the exuberant porter behavior. Were they hamming it up because it had been a long hard week for them too and they were happy to go home? Or was it us? By osmosis were they high about us summiting?

The National Park office at the entrance is where we'd sign out and let everyone know we were no longer wandering on the mountain. It's also where, reputedly, there is only one computer and the printing of Kili Summit Certificates is a not-fast process. Hence leaving early to avoid the lions share of the crowds before lunchtime.

Our ride was waiting and all of a sudden, 15 unshowered people crammed into a small vehicle didn't feel stinky and awful... it felt bittersweet. These were my people. The caring, generous, supportive and encouraging souls that had kept us safe, fed, positive and loved for 8 days. They had led us on an amazing adventure, pushed us further than we'd ever gone or would have otherwise been comfortable going. And it had been AMAZING! 

After a quick stop at the hotel to fetch tipping cash, we all went to the Habari Adventure office for the celebratory stuff... A lunch, a tipping ceremony and some singing led by our talented, Evance. 

They delivered Sue and I to our new hotel sometime that afternoon. The BruBru Hotel was not too far from the Kili Wonders Hotel, but it was what I'd call a boutique place, rather than the bustling conference and wedding venue we'd gotten used to. Very quiet with beautifully manicured grounds. The room was smaller but both of us found space to repack ready for safari tomorrow and have the world's most amazing shower - as it should feel, after 8 days!

Later that night we walked around the neighborhood to the KWH and met up with "the kids" for sunset, dinner and a drink. A toast to us... if you will.

Later, that BruBru bed was just the bee's knees and we relished every minute laying in it... until the alarm went off at crack'o'dawn and it was time to SAFARI!

October 15th: Day 5 Kilimanjaro Trek

 Barranco Camp to Karanga Camp

"The easy day". LOL. It starts before the sun is up.

Another beautiful morning and the Barranco Wall loomed over us. Intimidating, but no way around it - literally. Up we went.

Actually,  it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be and before long we'd scrambled, kissed the rock and were making our way 90 minutes steeply up the wall with hundreds of other people. Passengers/trekkers and porters alike. My fear had not actually been the climb, or even the heights (not great for me) but the fact I had nowhere to "make money" along the first half.  I made up for this in less-than-discreet places on the second half!

Once at the top, we and all the other trekkers, were taking time to breathe and congratulate ourselves. Fun was definitely had!

Also at this time, I welcomed taking my poles out of my pack and using them. There is a lot of beauty in using some upper body strength to take pressure off my knees. I am glad all of my training hikes were done with poles and that I focused heavily on up-down hikes. (Just sayin'... the tendancy to watch YouTube obsessively and focus on my perceived weaknesses has 100% paid off.)

Side note: In 2023 there were two major wildfires on Kilimanjaro in this area. They burned for weeks and were put out only when the rainy season arrived. Every so often we'd see a cable on the ground. I asked about it. It used to be wifi... until it was burned in the fires and it was never repaired/replaced. 

Today was definitely an up and down day. We dipped into valleys and climbed over ridges all the way to Karanga Camp. One of the highlights being that delightful time, a kilometer from camp, where porters appear out of nowhere to take our bags, lessen our loads and share the remaining journey. Other highlights include stunning views over clouds to Mt Meru and that hilarious time that our waiter, Emmanuel appeared, stealth-like behind me just as I was going to take Zar and Imogen's picture and said "I will do it" (not a question) as he took the phone from me. We all laughed... Perhaps he felt I was less competent. More likely he just really wanted to help! He disappeared a second later and we didn't see him again until 2 hours later when he called us to lunch at Karanga Camp.

Lunch... Yum. Rice, veggies, stewed beans with tomatoes - a group favorite. Fresh mango and pineapple. 

The sun was making intermittent appearances and the tents were toasty. It was a good "washy-washy" day and in preparation for no washy-washy tomorrow since Base Camp is dry (no water nearby for porters to hike in) I gave it my best effort. Then I trimmed all my toenails and dusted my feet with talcom powder and thanked my feet for their service thus far. I was one step closer mentally and physically to Summit Night. For the first time, I really felt I had this. My training had been paying dividends and my team was nothing short of awesome. The weather had been holding nicely and mostly I just felt Mama Kili was calling me ... like really inside my head now, beckoning me home. It's hard to explain. But it was reassuring and warming.

We had all afternoon to nap. Yes!!! (I did sleep just fine last night though; socks and toe warmers, tights and joggers, baselayer and fleece, hat and balaclava. Hot water bottle. Sleeping bag, down liner and silk liner... and then summit jacket stuffed inside. Plus my down jacket around my feet which were already clad in down booties!)

Another hearty dinner full of hot carbs, veggies, fruit and lively conversation was followed by card playing with the kids. Then as the sun sets and the cold settles in, it was back to my sleeping bag.

Tomorrow's Briefing:

Karanga Camp to Barafu Camp

4km in about 4 hours. At 4673m.

Wake: 6:00am

Breakfast then some dancing and motivational singing! A formal introduction to the members of the team we haven't had much chance to get to know.

We will arrive at Karanga camp earlier today. Wear the same as yesterday. (Not many options these days anyway!)