Empakaai Crater in Ngorongoro

We had hoped for animal noises and events overnight but alas it was pretty quiet... OR... is that the nighttime Sudafed talking?! (We were both still caught up in a battle with the dust. Sinuses were inflamed and stuffed up. Mine bled if I even thought about nose-blowing. The "Kili cough" that I had heard others talk about was now part of both of our days and nights.)

I stepped outside in my zebra jammies to raise some tent flaps and let the daylight in at around 7am and found myself staring into the eyes of a pretty hefty giraffe having breakfast in the dusty trees! He looked surprised too. And I know he is familiar with safari guests, so it must have been my zebra PJ's!

It was a calm breakfast, not many other glampers around. Hilary had briefed us to take rain and warm layers to Empakaai Crater today. At around 9000' it could be cool, rainy or foggy. 

Three hours later we ended the African massage that was the drive all around the rim of Ngorongoro Crater and arrived at a very discreet viewing platform overlooking the Empakaai Crater.  If the day had been sunnier, you'd be looking at a lake shining emerald green down there.

There was only 1 other vehicle present. We were joined by a middle-aged French Madame and a little girl, plus two fully armed and appropriated attired Rangers. They were fixing to keep us safe from cape buffalo, baboons and even any over-achieving leopard. To be fair, the wee girl would not have been more than a quick tasty bite ... so henceforth I'll simply refer to her as Amuse-Bouche. 

Three hundred meters down through the humid jungle on a steep, single dusty track, we went. Our head Ranger educated us about the sacred nature of the ficus tree to the Masai folk. The ficus is a bit of a parasite tree. It grows over and eventually kills the original tree. Every hairy root bundle drops to the ground, implants and becomes thick, woven into the original trunk. A tapestry of small vertical stabilizers that boggle the mind... A joy for the camera.

We ooh'd and aah'd at the Blue monkeys swinging effortlessly through the jungle and watched them stop to peel and carefully eat whatever the fruit was there.

At the crater bottom, a lake. And flamingos! The water is salt/alkaline as it dissolves minerals from the underlying volcanic rock. The animals who come to drink here, prefer the places where streams enter the lake. The flamingos love the algae that thrives in this alkaline environment though.

Sue and I and Amuse-Bouche wandered the area with Rangers while Madame caught her breath. She had really struggled with the downhill and no amount of Pole Pole would make the uphill less of a challenge for her. I felt her pain. There was no option... And Ranger with the long legs and an empathy-challenged perspective, could have been more understanding, IMHO.

I was glad to see sweet Hilary and his picnic basket at the top. Despite the falling temperature and a bit of a drizzle, we ate outside before starting the long drive back through the Ngorongoro area. I loved seeing the rolling hills, occasional zebra and giraffes, thousands of goats/sheep/donkeys being expertly herded by Masai. No running water, electricity (some solar power though) and huts made of sticks and mud. They are brightly clad in simple squares of cloth - robes, blankets, head coverings - one size fits all. It's so efficient!

This area is pocked with something I'd liken to prairie dog mounds/holes. Hilary told us they were mole rats! And that, my friends, explains the extraordinary number of birds of prey we saw this afternoon. Even though the Land Cruiser windows were closed to the drizzle and cool air, we managed incredible sightings and stopped for a few pictures that can't do them justice.

? African Goshawk

Back at Embalaakai Ngorongoro, Raymond and Co greeted us in the parking lot with their signature eucalyptus scented warm face cloths.  We wiped the dust from our faces and dirt from our hands. It was almost time to relax... but not before dealing with my sweaty, grimey hair and surprisingly filthy feet under a shower of solar powered hot water! 

How is it possible to have the most disgusting feet on the ONE day we actually wore shoes and socks?! I swear, that Tanzanian dust finds a way into anything! But if you look past the disgustingness... maybe just give us credit for intact 3 week old pedicures - despite taking them to the top of Kili?

There was warm nuts and local wine on the deck as the sun set. Crickets and bird noises surrounded us. 

And when you are first in line for dinner, it's even more impressive!

All was good in my world.

It was our last night here. Tomorrow is our last safari day too. Bittersweet!