So the plan was to walk to the town about 15km before Burgos.
Starting early we tackled the hill that most pilgrims appeared to be dreading. Rumor was circulating that it would take 3 hours to climb. If that was the case, then why did I have zero memory of it from last year?
I assured Pierre that it wasn't going to be super difficult for us and we started up the hill at 6:15 am. 45 minutes later we reached the top and the next couple of hours (pre-coffee!) were rolling hills through forest, in the dark. For whatever reason, I had a good memory for yellow arrows hidden in the trees, rocks piled into arrows on the road and we didn't get lost.
15km later, we emerged atop a hill and looked down at the land below... the Atapuerca Sierra area is one that is rich in archaeological evidence regarding human existence in this river valley for 1.3 million years! Unfortunately the education center was closed and I was unable to share that little gem with Pierre.
We walked on... the destination was another 6km or so and a decent hill stood between us and it.
At the top of said hill, we spied Burgos in the distance and the Burgos airport, which seemed actually pretty close! Exchanging looks we both came to the same conclusion. If we can make it to Burgos tonight, we get a free day in the city tomorrow. And so a new plan was hatched.
Crap! With painful feet we limped past the airport and joined the river trail that implied we were closer to the city center than we were. Probably another 6 km to go, if we could put aside our denial! The feet went into the river... the really, really cold river. Now it was hard to tell if the pain was miles related, or temperature related. For the next 15 minutes of hiking (about the limit without a break at this point) my feet remained blissfully numb.
Arriving at 5pm, we dragged our sorry selves into an Albergue. It slept 150 pilgrims and we were #145 and #146! Phew! My bunk was on the 6th floor and I had 29 roommates. But... a good shower and a clean mattress was plenty to be grateful for.
Dinner, the grand finale of a long day: Nope. Not a Pilgrim meal! We left the albergue at 6:05 pm and by 6:10 had a page of tapas and glad of vino tinto in hand. Anyone who knows me might have been shocked to see that glass empty by 6:15. And 3 more stops along the street for tapas and red wine followed! Albergue curfew was 10pm. At 9:15pm we waddled into the room and noticed only one of the 30 beds was filed with a sleeping Pilgrim. If I went to bed now, I'd be woken by the nighttime rituals of 27 other pilgrims. Unacceptable. There was only one solution... one more drink at the bar across the road!
I should mention that Laura, our bartender, seemed to like us. She gave us more food and a glass of strawberry gin - which is to die for!!! At this point my feet (which I'd wanted to chop off, 4 hours ago) were feeling fabulous.
Ah.... tomorrow is my first day off in 12 days. I'm going to be a tourist.
NOTE: Today we walked 54,966 steps... almost 25 miles. A freaking MARATHON with hills and a 16lb pack on my back.
Starting early we tackled the hill that most pilgrims appeared to be dreading. Rumor was circulating that it would take 3 hours to climb. If that was the case, then why did I have zero memory of it from last year?
I assured Pierre that it wasn't going to be super difficult for us and we started up the hill at 6:15 am. 45 minutes later we reached the top and the next couple of hours (pre-coffee!) were rolling hills through forest, in the dark. For whatever reason, I had a good memory for yellow arrows hidden in the trees, rocks piled into arrows on the road and we didn't get lost.
15km later, we emerged atop a hill and looked down at the land below... the Atapuerca Sierra area is one that is rich in archaeological evidence regarding human existence in this river valley for 1.3 million years! Unfortunately the education center was closed and I was unable to share that little gem with Pierre.
We walked on... the destination was another 6km or so and a decent hill stood between us and it.
At the top of said hill, we spied Burgos in the distance and the Burgos airport, which seemed actually pretty close! Exchanging looks we both came to the same conclusion. If we can make it to Burgos tonight, we get a free day in the city tomorrow. And so a new plan was hatched.
Crap! With painful feet we limped past the airport and joined the river trail that implied we were closer to the city center than we were. Probably another 6 km to go, if we could put aside our denial! The feet went into the river... the really, really cold river. Now it was hard to tell if the pain was miles related, or temperature related. For the next 15 minutes of hiking (about the limit without a break at this point) my feet remained blissfully numb.
Arriving at 5pm, we dragged our sorry selves into an Albergue. It slept 150 pilgrims and we were #145 and #146! Phew! My bunk was on the 6th floor and I had 29 roommates. But... a good shower and a clean mattress was plenty to be grateful for.
Dinner, the grand finale of a long day: Nope. Not a Pilgrim meal! We left the albergue at 6:05 pm and by 6:10 had a page of tapas and glad of vino tinto in hand. Anyone who knows me might have been shocked to see that glass empty by 6:15. And 3 more stops along the street for tapas and red wine followed! Albergue curfew was 10pm. At 9:15pm we waddled into the room and noticed only one of the 30 beds was filed with a sleeping Pilgrim. If I went to bed now, I'd be woken by the nighttime rituals of 27 other pilgrims. Unacceptable. There was only one solution... one more drink at the bar across the road!
I should mention that Laura, our bartender, seemed to like us. She gave us more food and a glass of strawberry gin - which is to die for!!! At this point my feet (which I'd wanted to chop off, 4 hours ago) were feeling fabulous.
Ah.... tomorrow is my first day off in 12 days. I'm going to be a tourist.
NOTE: Today we walked 54,966 steps... almost 25 miles. A freaking MARATHON with hills and a 16lb pack on my back.
Good Job Dallice! Walked 40km twice last year! It definitely was about my limit! Have great fun and take care! Miss to walk beside!! Tony
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