Fox Glacier to Haast

Moderate rain from the get-go today meant I had to cancel my Fox Glacier hike. But quintessential east coast weather meant I had the perfect opportunity for moody greyscale photography.

I stopped at Bruce Bay to make van-coffee and eat date loaf while eggs boiled on my campstove. 

The sea was grey-green and agreeable. It was definitely peaceful and while I considered getting "real accommodation", at this time, my serene self feels reluctant to give up a more natural setting despite the compelling idea of a hot shower.

I got some good advice at the Haast Visitor Center (and bought a couple of things to support the local conservation causes) then kept driving. There was no white heron sighting for me at NZ's only white heron breeding site and I continued straight south to Jackson Bay - where pricey-but-worth-it fish'n'chips were to be my reward.  The Cray Pot closed at 3pm and I was motivated!

Dang! Chris was not wrong... this was some worthwhile tucker! My belly was full, happy and warm.

I slept on the side of the road (kinda) somewhere along Haast Pass. Wood pigeons were my companions. So beautiful!

Nelson to Greymouth-ish

 I had a quick breakfast at the hotel and then left the parents to hit the road solo. It was pouring rain but forecast to clear up a little further down the west coast and that suited me just fine. Damp is NOT my personal happy place!

Through the Buller Gorge I went, stopping at Murchison for cafe food. A traditional meat pie with a contemporary twist - lamb and mint - and a custard slice to reminisce my childhood. (I can leave that one there now I think. It has lost some culinary delight for me... Is that the swollen lymph glands talking or just the maturing of my tastes?!)

At the Murchison Museum I went looking for local earthquake history. Today it was hosting an 80th birthday brunch for the founder/head of the place and I felt like I was stuck somewhere between being a party-crasher and a browser at the local antique store.  Strange little place, filled with fascinating firsthand recollections of events. More emotional than factual representations. I was gifted chocolates from the "party" that was in full swing there. Perhaps compensation for not being able to get super close to some of the exhibits? 

Pushing on, I chatted with Scott, parked at the entrance of a farm then exited the Buller Gorge toward Punakaiki.

The rain restarted briefly then cleared around 5pm just like my weather app had predicted, just in time for a 90 minute break at the Pancake Rocks. Fascinating!

The coast is ruggedly beautiful and I felt incredibly peaceful driving as the sun dipped lower.

Sometime before Greymouth, I stopped at an overlook and called it a night. The wind was howling, rocking my little van back and forth. But the light was phenomenal and I spent considerable time with my lens pointed to water droplets on flowers or out to sea at dusk. There was nowhere I'd rather sleep tonight.