Remember that time I ran away to Nebraska for a little Sandhill Crane viewing and photography? That was a year ago which means the cranes are on their way migratory way back north again right now.
I did consider going back to Nebraska... but as much as I loved Nebraska, it's people and especially the rolling hills and Platte River Valley geography, there were compelling reasons to stick to Colorado this trip. (The political climate seems like one of them but trust me when I say the area of CO I planned to visit is not so different, politically. It was one of those few occasions where I had to just suck it up, Buttercup!)
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| The lesson being you need to be very specific about what you wish for! |
It had already been a long work day and spectacular night of high end Italian food at Osteria Marco, followed by great seats at the Colorado Ballet's performance of Alice in Wonderland, when I slipped out of my dress and heels under the cover of darkness in the DCPA's parking lot and into driving/sleeping/bird watching clothes at 10pm. (I never claimed to be refined.)
Then I started the 4 hour drive to Monte Vista in the San Luis Valley.
In all fairness, I never actually intended to drive 4 hours in the dark. I'm a morning person and I knew that within a couple of hours, I'd be too tired to drive safely. There was an inflatable camp mattress and sleeping bag already set up in the back of the 4runner and just after midnight I pulled into the most lovely designated rest area near Colorado City, installed my insulated window covers and called it a night. My alarm was set for 4:50am - and the plan was to be at the Monte Vista Wildlife Refuge for sunrise at 7:15am.
At 6am I was cresting La Veta Pass. Light snow was flying through the air and swirling on the road. In the darkness, the full moon passed beams through the glitter and I was overjoyed with my good fortune to be there. It was going to be a good weekend!
Not sure how, since I had the vaguest of plans to "find a good place at the refuge", but I pulled into an almost empty parking lot labeled 'Field View' and found myself staring at thousands of squawking cranes. (Just lucky, I guess!) A mass arrival was taking place under the pinkish sky and in the cold morning air, I crouched with my camera and took it all in... for 2 hours!
Cranes choose the Monte Vista National Wildlife Refuge over the Alamosa Wildlife Refuge because the MVNWF is near farming and they feed off the agricultural fields from sunrise to mid-morning. In fact, the grain fields on the Monte Vista National Wildlife Refuge get mowed in the spring to provide food for the birds when it becomes more limited on private land.
By the time I looked up the parking lot was full. Photographers, tourists, locals; some dressed for the long haul, like me. Others prepared for 10 minutes with a cell phone, kept the car running.
These cranes didn't appear as easily spooked by people and cars as the ones I encountered in Nebraska, however every so often something spooked them! In the blink of an eye most of them would take to the sky. Rising like a curtain from the ground, blocking the light, bird calls in stereo, wing vibration all around you to the point it was almost frightening.
I learned during my time here that if you wait long enough (less than half an hour) they would most likely return en masse too. It was almost like they were forcing me to take a break to warm up and eat/drink a little in my car, periodically. The universe provides... and so did I.
I spent all morning sitting and observing cranes in community. These birds mate for life and spend considerable time "renewing their vows" with courtship displays, playfulness and what I'd call going out for dinner. Partners land and take off together, take walks together and relax together. They never get alone time or any meaningful personal space (understatement!!!) and yet they make it work. Go figure!?
Now, when I say no personal space is an understatement, what I mean is that they're ok with thousands of other cranes AND almost as many Canada geese and mallard ducks in their business too.
Check it out; Cranes landing is like watching a glider come in to port. Landing gear down. Graceful controlled descent and with a hop and bounce, spindly little toothpick legs absorb the shock of landing. I never get tired of watching this.
In comparison, geese and ducks flutter to the ground, flapping madly to lose lift intentionally and brace for impact at the same time. It's like watching a wet blanket fall from the sky and yet, they find a space to fill in the madness and no-one seems to be any the worse for wear!
I spent the rest of the day taking in different parts of the Monte Vista Wildlife Refuge, which included a 2.5 mile driving loop through the middle where the ponds are. There are crane roosting areas on this loop road. Cranes choose shallow open water for roosting overnight.
Loafing is the term that describes the birds between about 10am and 4pm. They can be found in wet meadows and other uplands, where they loaf and occasionally feed on roots, tubers and invertebrates.
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| Bald Eagle |
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| American Kestrel |
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| Meadowlark |
I returned to this loop for the pre-sunrise lift-off on Sunday. It was, shall we say, nippy leaving the hotel this morning!
Side note: When I was shopping for a 4runner last month, a sunroof was not of my list of must-have options. Some original owners had splurged for them, some had not. I didn't care.... UNTIL TODAY. This morning I popped up through the sunroof of my Moose, telephoto lens in hand as I balanced on the center console. Superb Toyota heat blew and kept me comfortable while the air above was just 12F. I had the height I needed to see over the cattails and other photographers, and I rested my heavy lens on the roof to shoot as the cranes navigated the slippery ice and took off in low light.
Just a few more hours, then I had to hit the road.
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| Cooper's Hawk |
A bit about cranes before I go...
23,000-27,000 cranes migrate through the San Luis Valley each spring and fall.
There are two subspecies: The greater and the lesser Sandhill Crane. In the Rocky Mountains, the population of Greater Sandhill Cranes is estimated around 18,000-23,000 birds. 95% of these will appear in the MVNWR in spring and fall on their way to breeding or wintering grounds.
There are about 3,000-5,000 of the slightly smaller Lesser Sandhill Cranes that migrate through here.
Cranes live an impressive 20-30 years.
They bond for life and breed at 2-5 years old.
Pairs build large ground nests in wetlands and take turns incubating eggs.
While two eggs are often laid, only one juvenile will leave the breeding ground with parents.
Juveniles stay with parents through summer, fall and winter and when the parents begin to rekindle their pair bonds... the junvenile leaves or is forced out of the family group.
Driving home was no hardship either. Does it get more beautiful? No. No it doesn't. And that's perhaps one of the more compelling reasons for me staying in Colorado and not trekking to Nebraska this weekend.
