Showing posts with label Bolshoi Ballet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bolshoi Ballet. Show all posts

Sunday, September 23, 2018

September 20th: Moscow Day 1

What a debacle!

Our flight, only about an hour late, arrived safely in Moscow around lunch time and we were off. Passport control was easy and friendly and at the arriving baggage conveyor, we relaxed as bags came around about a half dozen every 5 minutes. I think they had just one guy working as a baggage handler today. LOL

Mark's bag was pretty much last off. And mine.... never arrived. The Aeroflot service desk was super nice and the young lady who helped me used all of her English skills and was enthusiastic about it too. I liked her a lot but she couldnt solve the missing suitcase problem despite her best efforts. At some point she tapped on her computer and announced that my bag looked like it was still in NYC. Sweet! The next step was to fill out an "irregular action" report and some preemptive customs paperwork so that Aeroflot could whip it through then hand it off to a courier for delivery to our hotel later. They anticipated it would be arriving around 5:10pm and would deliver that same night.

Ok, so Im no math whiz, but it's an 8 hour flight from NY and it was now 1:30pm. If the suitcase had indeed been traced to JFK, just how was it going to make Moscow by dinner time?
(There is a place and a time to be sarcastic about this, but that place is not Russia if you don't speak Russian and the time was not then... I was too tired.)

Dragging only one suitcase to the curb in search for a taxi was actually going to be easier than 2 anyway.

Outside, we were immediately accosted by a VERY friendly, engaging and funny Russian dude. He assured us he was there to put us in a "genuine taxi" and in about an hour we'd be near Red Square and at our hotel. The Budapest Hotel. It wasn't until he was loading the suitcase into the trunk that he showed us his non-negotiable fare card. Laminated, to prove that's what everyone paid. Hahaha.

4800 Rubles = about $80 US. And about 3600 Rubles to much according to my research.

Out came the bags and we stormed off, the happy-go-lucky taxi dude following 4 feet behind us the whole way and trying to apologize. His price dropping about every 30 seconds. When it hit 1200 Rubles a deal was struck and once again the bags and ourselves were loaded into a taxi. Albeit a less fancy looking taxi.

Our driver was a little crazy but we liked him. He spoke not a word of English and seemed to enjoy lane-splitting, using the off-ramp as a passing lane then diving back onto the highway or riding the shoulder like it was the extra lane built just for us. In all fairness, he got us to the hotel in one piece and still had a smile on his face at arrival. That's a win!

Hotel Budapest is pretty swanky. I guess our travel agent is a keeper too.
Our Junior Suite was not ready on arrival but we were assured it would be in 30 minutes and Maria at the front desk gave us directions to the nearest shopping area so I could buy a dress and shoes for the ballet. Shopping had never been on my list for Moscow, but I had no choice. What stood in front of Maria was a woman who hadn't showered in 2 days, wore leggings and sneakers and sported a bed-head. The Bolshoi has standards and I didn't even come close to meeting them.

Between 3pm and 5:30pm Mark and I hit the local high end mall. Downtown Moscow is akin to Cherry Creek, Denver. I had no business shopping there, but again... had no choice either and at some point I just took out my credit card and walked away with a dress and shoes that would certainly fool anyone into thinking I deserved box seats at the Bolshoi. We followed shopping with a quick bite (stroganoff of course) at a casual bar not far from the hotel and then it was time to shower and get ready to go out again.

You might remember little OCD me printing off duplicate tickets for the ballet? That paid off. The first set was packed in my suitcase, somewhere between NYC and Moscow(?) but the second, was spiral bound in my "itineraries and useful info" book and stashed in my computer case of my carry on bag.

First Dress Circle, Box 2, Seats 3 and 5. Perched on the left and overlooking the orchestral pit with a fab view of the stage, we propped ourselves up against the railing and settled in for the evening. Tchaikovsky wafted up and lights dimmed for each of the scenes set at night - Swan Lake, so that's about half of the show! I knew I should have had caffeine with dinner!!!





In the last 72 hours, I think I was lucky enough to have had almost 8 hours sleep and Mark, a lot less. We had run ourselves ragged and skipped through time zones willy-nilly and now, it was all taking its toll. I only had to blink slowly and I my body started to twitch with the first signs of sleep. Making it through the performance, one of the most beautiful experiences of my life, was tough. But it was nothing short of magical too... every costume was a work of art, every ballerina/swan was in perfect synchronicity and the music was heavenly. We shared our box with a Russian couple who were just as delighted to be there as we were and I couldn't help but remember how fortunate (and just plain lucky) we were to have been awarded these seats as part of the randomness of the universe.

Back at the hotel, there was no sign of my luggage and the Aeroflot website that I could track my delayed baggage case number through, was still saying "baggage is being traced". Perhaps it would be there in the morning, as our chipper service desk gal optimistically suggested.

Tuesday, August 07, 2018

Trans-Mongolian Railway : Swan Lake at the Bolshoi

I might have mentioned in our itinerary that we were attending the ballet in Moscow. You didn't know I was a fan, did you?  Me neither until a few years ago. But there is something mesmerizing about it... dancers who train from near birth, bodies that are out-of-this-world, gymnast-like athleticism, artistic choreography and drama playing out with beautiful lighting and costuming. And on the other end of the spectrum is me.... I'm kinda clumsy if we're being honest!

Going to the ballet is like stepping into someone else's world. It's enchanting.

The Moscow Ballet is the epitome though. It's the nearest thing to perfection in this field and if I was ever going to be in Moscow, attending ballet at the Bolshoi historic theater was on my bucket list.





Around March, shortly after we booked tickets to Moscow, I went looking for Bolshoi ballet tickets. Trouble was, the schedule was not yet published and not expected until May/June for the September events. I put myself on a list for notification and early ticket purchase when the time came... then forgot about it.

In June, I was out with clients when I got a text message. The Bolshoi schedule had published. It was another 2 hours before I was home and could seek out tickets online. In those 2 hours the "cheap seats" sold out! (And I use the term "cheap" very loosely because well, they wanted something close to your first born, for a good seat and possibly only your 4th born, for the least expensive ones.)

I bought Mark and I "second from the cheapest" seats and we were thrilled to add this experience to our first night in Moscow. By thrilled I mean we intend to stay awake the whole 2:45 hour performance but understand that this could otherwise be very expensive nap, given our two days of traveling to get this far. (We have/had no kids, so before you get your panties in a wad, let me tell you we didn't pay via human exchange, we paid by credit card.)

The service that I bought the tickets through guaranteed the seats but tickets are not emailed out until 2 weeks prior.  Once again, the ballet tickets slipped from my mind and we continued to plan the rest of the trip.

Fast forward to last week and I received an email:
It informed me the economy tickets, middle of the 3rd circle were unable to be secured for us, so per their guarantee for those or better, we were getting BETTER!

Now we are the proud and excited owners of tickets to Swan Lake at the Bolshoi, in the first Circle... box seats.  Holy crap! In my wildest dreams I never saw myself sitting in a $995 box seat at the Bolshoi.





Oh my.... Feelin' fancy!

Definitely drinking coffee before the show, definitely.

PS: I'd offer to take pics while there, but it appears that is impossible. No recording devices allowed in. Will you settle for a picture of the brochure if there is one?