Peru Day 8: Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes

Holy crap! This might be a day that I relive forever, or live to regret!

In unison, these sound like singing bowls!

The Inca Cross

Saying goodbye to the chefs, Roger and Mario

We started out later from our bustling campsite, having been picked up by Vertikal Zipline and promised quite the adventure.

With gear fitting and our first safety briefing out of the way, we waddled our harnessed butts to the first of SIX ziplines. I should have known that hard hats and leather gloves hinted to what we'd really signed up for.

No kidding I was nervous. Heights are not my thing. But the first and second ziplines were pretty fine. Even the third was eh... not too bad.


But between the forth and fifth zipline stations, there was this suspension bridge, spanning a ravine. For whatever reason, I lost control of my common sense and decided that I'd conquer this fear today. I followed Kelli out onto the bridge!

Frightening? Oh hell yes! The wooden rungs, barely attached to 2 of the 3 wire cables beneath, were irregularly spaced. By that I mean, some were sooo far apart from each other that you had to actually step on the wire suspension cables to traverse the gaps!  WTF!? I was FREAKING OUT on a full nervous system level and weakly called out to Kelli with my dry mouth. Paralyzed by fear and hyperventilating... and only a third of the way across.

Kelli - ever the confident climber and competent nurse practitioner, turned to face me. She had me make eye contact and talked me through slowing my breathing.  I continued on and several more people from another group started out on the bridge behind me. About 15 yards from the end, those guys behind me decided that rocking the bridge would be super neat.  There may have been a point where I yelled "WTF, that is NOT ok!"

So yeah. I have ticked suspension bridge off my bucket list and can die before needing to do another. Like, ever!

Post ziplining, we were transported to the hydroelectric power station nearest Machu Picchu. From there we began a 12km hike along the railway tracks to Aguas Calientes.

Through banana plantations, engulfed by jungle, following a roaring river, beneath colorful cliffs and under a bright blue sky with warm sunshine, we hiked. Team Alex!

"Our dog" He followed us for 8km, then like a ghost, was gone again.

Despite the insect repellent that had been rubbed into most of my body (even under my clothes) I found myself the main course for half the tiny sand-flies in Peru. They were relentless and I had no idea how many bites I had until later that night!

It had been another perfect afternoon, enjoying the smell of the cloud forest and learning from Alex.  Blissing out in Peru. Arriving at 5pm-ish, we beat the train that had stopped to pick up our duffel bags at the hydroelectric station. Technical issues??

Alex, Kelli, Teresa and I used our "spare time" to suck down a couple of Pisco Sours and give Roger (our chef) a little send-off, before using hotel room showers (NICE!!) and regrouping after dinner for one more drink.

After that, the night is a bit of a blur. I believe we acquired dessert from street vendors before we lost all sense of decorum and the eyebrow event occurred...

Peru Day 3: Cusco City Tour and Chocolate Class

O.M.G, I slept 9 hours straight. The room was warm and cozy and I woke to my utter surprise, to see sunlight peeking around the black-out curtains.

Im recording blood O2 stats for the purpose of medicating as needed without having to think too much... which is damn near impossible it appears when blood oxygen dips into the 80's for me.

I've seen worse. I've been worse!

Our hotel (San Augustin) puts on quite a breakfast. Yippee!
Strong coffee with hot milk, detox juice blend (in prep for another Pisco Sour evening?) cold cuts, cereal Peruvian style, eggs, veggies, fruit, baked goods and more!

Alex was waiting in the lobby for us at 8am. We enjoyed seeing his smiling face once more.

Our first stop was Qorikancha temples. Historically where the Incas worshiped or celebrated (or both) the rainbow, lightning, mountains, stars and planets, earth, water, moon and sun. They seemed to have a firm grip on reality when you think about it. Our place here on earth and in the universe is very small. We are NOT the center and everything wasn't put there for us to use and abuse. Instead we should be grateful for the gifts and blessings that the natural world showers on us, for it is these gifts that determine really, if our lives are sustainable.
Qorikancha while initially Inka, was taken and "converted" by the Spanish. The gold was stolen, the stones removed and temples torn down or built over - a common way to remove all trace of the religion that you are hoping to replace with Catholicism! In this case, they also plastered over the giant stones that made up the foundation, walls and doorways. While pretty in its own way, the white walls with their painted scenes covered over Inca history and culture.... until 1950 when a big earthquake shook the city, destroying much of the spanish workmanship and revealing, once more, the Inca masonry.

Alex and Teresa

Wiracocha's niche... perfectly positioned to catch sunrise rays

Today on our tour, it was interesting to see a little of both still here. But absolutely fascinating to learn of the intelligent design that these temples were a part of.

Sexy Woman! Well that is how we remembered it because it really is pronounced (almost) that way and because this is quite the empowered girlfriend vacation. If you want to Google more about it, then you'll need to spell it correctly... Saqsaywaman.

This Inca citadel is located on the northern outskirts of Cusco. It took 60-70 years and 20,000 people to remodel in the 13th Century as it was originally built by the people of the Killke culture. The guy in charge was Pachacutec. He was the "Alex the Great" of the Incas and started the Golden Age.

Q'enquo... A temple to worship Mother Earth. I liked it from the get-go. Considered a holy type place, Q'enqo is the site of sacrifice and mummification!

Did you know that when "sacrifices needed to be made" the little bodies were in fetal position? 

Alex, ever the thorough guide, demonstrates how the mummified bodies were found... 

And shortly after that, I was ready for some baby animal moments.

Next stop: Pukapukara

This was a way station, serving many needs but primarily as a military checkpoint, a grainery for supplying food to the army and a messenger's relay post (pony express type deal). They built these about every 8-10km along the Inca trails.

You know how when you go on tours in foreign countries, you are often subjected to mandatory sales stops? Well, forget that with Alex. The only store we ended up in today was with our blessing and consultation prior to the van pulling up.

This textile place was amazing. They gave us tea made from herbs collected outside and a little class on how to tell baby alpaca from "maybe alpaca". All across Peru, there seem to be folk selling alpaca products, but its really hard to tell if it's the real deal or if, once washed at home, you'll find it was some sort of soft acrylic.

Baby Alpaca: It's the first cut of the hair. Each alpaca gets one clipping in its life that counts as baby alpaca hair. After that, when it grows back the hair is just alpaca. Baby alpaca is soft, soft, soft. Much more expensive of course. Alpaca is still a totally nice product, FYI. Warm in the cold, cool in the heat, washes and wears well. 

"Maybe alpaca" is not cool to the touch and can look a little shinier. 

We explored the gift store, the art that is being created here and watched the process too. 

The hanging piece below is a recreation of an Inca computer/recording device. Each strand, knot etc is recording information about life in Inca culture during a certain time. I'd explain it to you, but apparently it has not entirely been figured out yet. All we know is that it's a binary system... like todays computers!

Final thought (wishful thinking) at the textile place: My fav piece. And if I had US $1800 up my sleeve, I might have bought it. GORGEOUS. Yarns are all dyed naturally using colors from plants and the cochineal bug.

Lunch. Some friend of a friend recommended the restaurant Chicha, to us. Alex was kind enough to make a reservation for us by phone, as we toured around this morning, so Kelli, Teresa and I found ourselves dining like royalty at lunch time.

Mmmmm... Alpaca curry. (Don't judge me. I am trying new things, but have not been able to mentally get past eating guinea pig.)

 Busy day, right?!
We signed up for a chocolate class in the afternoon. What a hoot! Our teacher's name was Arnold. He was young with signs of mischief in his eyes. Every question was leading or a trick and the class was in tears constantly at his jokes and antics.  Arnold, if you ever read this... I think you are a perfect fit for your job. Don't go changing.

We really didn't need antics or sugar to give us the giggles. It seemed we were always one outburst away from pee'd pants anyway, but we so appreciated the sarcasm and showmanship.

In 2 hours we had taken a cacao bean, roasted and peeled it, ground it into paste and made it into hot chocolate. We also learned "recipes" for white chocolate, dark chocolate and milk chocolate, then molded some chocolate of our own. Mine featured coca powder... as you do, at altitude! (Best ever reason for "needing" to eat chocolate.)

As we waited for the chocolate to set, we stopped by a crafty shop down the road. The owner was crocheting hats and welcomed us warmly. She was an Inca shaman, 3rd generation. Before long she got out her grandmothers kit of sacred items/artifacts and began chanting on my behalf. After declaring that my heart was sad, she "took" the sadness from me and wished me a happy life. I felt goosebumps as we left her store.

Last thing for the day... Pisco Sour at the hotel bar before turning in.... of course!
Goodnight, Cusco.