We are back in the land of large coffees and I'm so grateful that the toothache that has been plaguing me for several days, is not hot or cold sensitive! After walking in the dark about 5km, we arrived at Hospital de Òrbigo. The coffee was great, the host warm and friendly, a new stamp was put in the pilgrim passport and we saw one of the most amazing historic bridges... even in the dim light. A good start to the day, by all accounts.
At the 15km mark we reached the top of a beautiful hill. It was freshly planted with rose bushes and young trees. Clearly the intent was to grow a tranquil, shaded place for weary pilgrims to break, before descending into Astorga. I personally ate fruit, cookies and chocolate there.
Then we were in Astorga. A charming, small city brimming with humanity. Art, kids, candy stores, great dining, beautiful cathedral and a cheese fair/market, that was well attended by happy Astorgans and visitors alike.
We continued on. Having sampled the cheese, photographed the cathedral, walked with some locals (thanks for the short cuts!) and shopped. That's right. I'm the proud new owner of a rain poncho and some hunting mitts! I figured out on that rainy messeta day that my Goretex jacket is less than 100% effective, at 8 years old. Galicia is just around the corner and it reportedly rains a LOT! The mittens are a precaution. Already it's cold enough in the morning that my fingers feel the bite of impending winter, through my thin gloves. Mark suggested those mittens with fingerless gloves and flaps to protect the fingertips - making it possible to still take pictures. Thanks, sweetie!
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