Camino de Santiago Day 13: Villafranca Montes de Oca to Atapuerca

Having been advised that the road was a bit boring, followed the highway and some pilgrims had elected to take a bus this day, I held no great expectations for today's hike. 

Besides, it was a little hard to drag myself away from that lovely hotel and mentally become a pilgrim again. 

The Camino, however, had other plans for me.  Plans to wow me and remind me I have more gratitude for the journey than even for that fancy hotel when I'm feeling the grimiest... and most in need of some space to be alone.

I thoroughly enjoyed the smell of autumn today. Leaves falling.  Crunching underfoot. Cool morning air with fog hanging in the valleys. 

All along the way today, there were signs that pilgrims had gone before us, but also that locals care enough to bring their tools and paint up a hill and create uplifting things out of logs. There were smiles all around! It's true, it takes little more than some smiley faces and a few bright colors to please pilgrims... couple that with all the other childish things that have made me grin this week and I'm beginning to wonder if the true gift of the Camino is a temporary trip back to a simpler way of life... triggering the memories of easy pleasures we held so dear as kids. Color, leaves, favorite dinner we looked forward to after earning it, picking and eating wild berries, spending all day with friends, going on adventures, laughing til we cried and running around until we're so tired we fall into bed and go out like a light.

Of course mandatory churches - every town has a cathedral - and history to go with it. 

We stayed in the most adorable little albergue. Friendly staff, great food, genuine barn feeling. .. a dorm room with 18 bunks and small holes in the ceiling/roof between the concrete tiles, wooden beams and stuff holding it together. 

It was idyllic, right up to the part where I hardly slept a wink! My sturdy bunk mate tossed and turned about every 20 seconds. She had the squeaky bed... but it didn't keep her awake.  Neither did her snoring! Perhaps even bigger of a mystery was she kept up her wriggling pace, while snoring and asleep! Amazing. About 3 AM was when I discovered why there is a notice to pilgrims on the wall, asking them not to take the blankets outside. I'd have gotten more sleep on the cold hard village road, I think.