Thursday, September 27, 2018

Moscow to Irkutsk : Trans-Siberian Railway

To be honest, I lost track of time on this train. It happened frighteningly quickly and while I'd like to blame exhaustion, sleep aids or the loss of actual time via time zone hopping... I think what really happened is I realized time didn't matter too much once I was safely aboard.

We were on the first leg of the Trans-Siberian from 11:50pm, September 22nd to 7:35 am on September 26th. During this time we lost 4 hours as we traveled east... Although I couldn't tell you exactly when.

On board we ate and drank, napped and fidgeted with gadgets. Mostly though, like a cat, I simply sat at the window and watched the world (Russia) go by. Every 2 minutes a new photo op presented itself!















For the first two days it was flat outside. Really, really flat. You'd have thought I might have gotten bored. All those people who told me it was hours of the same thing - trees - were right, and also wrong. It is fall in a Russia too. Birch trees are changing shades of green, gold and orange. A small gust sends leaves fluttering down on a farmer plowing his field or showers the cat who watches a cow graze near the tracks. Each town, filled with colorful houses and iron bridges, spends another day preparing for the upcoming long winter. Hay is baled, fire wood is stacked. The peacefulness is disturbed only by passing trains. There are a lot of passing trains.

I loved the view. The way the sun caught the colors on the ground, the clouds moved across the sky and most surprisingly, the way every picture had electrical wires in it. I grew to try and compose with them, rather than try to eliminate them! It was compelling. Mesmerizing.

We  stopped irregularly and always unexpectedly at few of the stations enroute. 10 or 20 minutes to disembark and see what local delicacies could be purchased.  Never straying too far from the tracks or the watchful eye of our carriage nanny, just in case the wheels started rolling again without us. There would be no catching up again if left behind!

Before I knew it, I had awoken from a 3rd good train sleep and day three, well and truly in Siberia now, was here. The hills were rolling now. More agriculture, more animals, darker soil, bigger towns.








Riding the rails was easy and fun.  Fellow passengers were friendly and life was good!

Wednesday, September 26, 2018

Kvass: Russia's best kept secret that should be kept that way!

I know precisely one person who has visited Russia for an extended period of time. So, Eric Stonebraker, this post is for you.

Before we left I asked for recommendations for food and such. You know, “must try” or “must not miss” type of advice. Eric (tongue in cheek?) suggested Kvass. I got the impression that it was an acquired taste.

Two days ago, while shopping for some supplies for our 75 hour train journey Mark and I found ourselves in a small supermarket. It had pretty much everything we went looking for and then some. Our shopping basket included bar soap, deodorant, UHT cream, potato chips, Ramen noodles, Japanese looking noodle boxes, cookies and a bottle of what appeared to be ginger beer.

I’m new to needing reading glasses and still frequently don’t use them when I probably should. Side effects of going without them include but are not limited to, tired eyes, headaches and believing you are buying ginger beer when you are not, apparently.

I swear the picture looked like ginger root on the label!


Fast forward 2 days and this bottle has been rolling around our compartment at room temp for quite a while now. It was a sleepy afternoon and I suggested we break out the ginger beer. Mark agreed. It was carbonated for sure. I heard the hiss and saw the fizz at I poured it gently into the two glasses.

I made first contact with it. A surprise awaited my taste buds and my face didn’t hide it too well. “Tastes like cabbage, slightly vinegary veggie water.” I squeaked. Mark, never one to shy away from culinary adventures, took a mouthfull too. His face was worse.


It was time to Google Translate the label:


There you have it. Accidental Kvass tasting had occurred. Google seems to think it's for windows. I'm not ruling it out.

What is Kvass? Apparently it’s made of horseradish - which could pass as ginger root in a picture, FYI.

What does Kvass taste like? Imagine you boiled some cabbage and a beet or two, added salt and some vinegar, and let it ferment a few days in a warm place. Just before serving, grind some horseradish and stir it in. I know right? Probably tastes quite awful? True that. In addition, it effervesces and those little bubbles become the gift that just keeps giving for another 30 mins or so.

Ah traveling… the best stories come from the adventures you didn’t plan!

Speaking of which,  my computer is not charging as of today.  Until further notice,  all posts will be created on just my phone.  A tad frustrating but again,  not the end of the world. <sigh>

September 22nd: All Aboard!


It sounded easy. Maria at the front desk of the Budapest Hotel smiled cheerfully when she advised that taking the Metro would be quicker and easy and MUCH cheaper.

Our train to Irkutsk departed at 11:45 pm and we, being compulsively early types, planned on being at the station an hour before departure… Even though we knew the train would not be.

At 9:50 pm we trundled out of our hotel, suitcases in tow, day packs strapped on and headed for the nearest Metro. At 10 pm, it turns out there is no helpful old lady to sell you tickets in broken English. We were forced to use the ticket machine, which displays ONLY in Russian. We were “guessing” pretty well, based on knowing the price of a single ticket, when a young guy took pity on us. He purchased a 3 journey ticket for himself and lead us through the entry gates with him. Another joyous example of Russian kindness, hospitality and generosity. OMG, I am going to miss Moscovites!

A half mile later, up and down escalators and through deep under-Moscow tunnels, we loaded our suitcases and ourselves onto the red line going north. Three stops later and just as promised, our Metro spat us out at/near Yaroslavky Station, however signage in Russian using the “English alphabet” was scarce and it wasn’t too long before we were again befriended by an older Russian gentlemen who informed us it was our lucky day - he’d help us.

For those of you who have traveled as I have, perhaps like me you are immediately suspicious he’d want something in return. No. Not in Russia. In Russia, all that is expected is a friendly conversation and a thank you. It is refreshing, surprising and very humbling.

A Yaroslavsky Station we simply couldn’t find any English (or Russian using English alphabet) info. The departure board was in Russian, the ticket offices closed, the passengers/people milling around spoke zero English. It was now already 11 pm. Forty five minutes to departure. There were 12 really well spaced tracks to choose from and I was struggling to breathe - A delightful combo of my ongoing cough, apparently unregulated vehicle emissions and ludicrous amounts of cigarette smoke that triggered asthma that I had not experienced for almost 10 years. Stress was not helping either.

Just then the departure board changed from Russian alphabet to English alphabet and we recognized “Moscow - Beijing”. 11:45. Track ?

It was agreed that I’d tear through the station getting familiar with the tracks, so when the track # finally appeared, we’d know the quickest way to get there. Mark stayed to guard the luggage and off I went.

Through double doors and out into the night I walked. Just train tickets in hand. I finally located Tracks 1-3 (our best guess for our long distance train) and proceeded to head back inside. PROBLEM! Mine had apparently been a one way journey past security and I found myself being told “no entry” back to the station and instead I had to exit onto the city street and walk around the giant train station to the entry through security on the other side. Crap! No time for that.

Again to the rescue, a lovely young Russian stranger who spoke enough English to translate my “issue” to the guards and make a case for me to go against the flow. One little pat down and scan with bomb-seeking wand later and they made an exception for me. Stroke averted.

Back inside, reunited with Mark, I discovered the track # had been posted. Track 2. And… there was an Anteka (pharmacy) still open at 11:15 pm on a Saturday night! It really was time to find out if asthma inhalers were sold over the counter here, as in other foreign countries. The pharmacist spoke zero English but was amused at my attempts using Google Translate. She rolled her eyes as she put 4 types of inhalers on the counter and asked me to choose one… All were covered in prescription details that were completely foreign to me of course.

If you have never used Google Translate, then you are missing out. I used the camera function to hover over the Russian words and translate them to English on my screen. It’s a bit magical. And the only way to safely determine (educated guess at least) dosages.

Arriving at Track 2, we waited maybe 5 minutes then were boarded. That’s cutting it way to close for both Mark and I to feel comfortable! The train to Beijing (but we get off in Irkutsk) left precisely on time. We were already settled into our room for the next 75 hours.

I was asleep by midnight.
(Nope, no pics this post. I really, really didn't have the time... And besides, in my rush, it never occurred to me to whip out so much as my phone.)

Tuesday, September 25, 2018

September 22nd : Moscow Day 3


Overnight, a miracle happened.
11:45 pm and the phone rang in our room. We didnt know we HAD a phone until it rang and in the darkness, I stumbled around and found it under Marks stuff on the desk. The receptionist informed me that my luggage had arrived and I got the distinct impression that she needed to me to come and collect it right now. So I did.



The next morning I had the pleasure of choosing what to wear, then we hit that amazing breakfast buffet and checked out. The hotel stored our luggage for the day so we could once again be tourists in Moscow.

It was a spectacularly pleasant day. A tour of Saint Basils Cathedral was first on the list - actually it’s 9 churches melded together, which explains a little bit, the appearance.









Then we bussed, hiked and floundered our way to Gorky Park. Gorky Park is huge and it frequently finds itself on the 10 most wonderful things to do in Moscow, list. We were not discouraged even after overhearing other tourists tell us what a non-event it was and I’m super glad about that in hindsight. The park is amazing… and on a beautiful, sunny Saturday afternoon, it is filled with Moscovites and their families enjoying picnics, boat rides, games, gardens and kids play equipent. Trails are wide and paved. Flowers are perfectly pruned. People are smiling and laughing. The vibe is… well… excellent! There are almost 12 million people who call Moscow home. It thrilled me to learn that many if not most of them appear to have a firm grip on enjoying the free things in life... they hang with family and friends, eat cotton candy and ice cream, soak up sunshine and stop to smell the flowers. 






Mark and I found a cute little cafe somewhere in the middle and stopped for lunch.



The menu was out of this world, translated to English and featured artistic photography of many of the dishes. We both enjoyed unusual salads, but mine was so good and so interesting that I had to take some notes! I plan to try and recreate it at home and in case you want to, here you go:
Crispy eggplant bites
Cilantro leaves
Mint leaves
Soft mild cheese in little firm dollops
Tomato chunks
Sunflower seeds
All tossed in a sweet chilli sauce




It was served with an Armenian bread and a tomato based dipping sauce - slightly spicy and smokey in flavor.

After lunch we walked along the embankment of the Moscow River and through the Artists Center. 




The plan to tour the Kremlin fell by the wayside as walking in the sunshine become the activity of choice. Rain looked like it was coming… and somewhere around dusk, it arrived. Us and 5000 of our new friends hanging out at Red Square and in front of The Four Seasons Hotel all of a sudden felt big drops. Everyone scattered sooo fast! Mark and I took shelter at the entrance to the Four Seasons just as the heavens opened up and torrential rain and wind battered the city. It was crazy and all the doorman could do to keep the riff-raff out of the hotel lobby! LOL

When it passed, the sun had set and the wet stone pavement of downtown Moscow reflected city life and lights like nothing you can imagine. It was beautiful!

I stopped at a puddle near the Bolshoi and shot this one….


And then these:





Then we headed back to the hotel. Coffee was on order… It was another 3 or so hours before we needed to head out to Yaroslavsky Station and after a long day with lots of walking, caffeine was in order. 
What is it they say about idle hands?


Hanging in the cafe of the Budapest Hotel was our last event in Moscow unless you count the adventure that followed; Getting to Yaroslavsky station.