Day 32: Arriving in Santiago!

We only had 20km to go... and an easy 20, comparatively speaking.  But boy, was it hard!

After 4.5 weeks of getting up early and hiking, my feet were telling me they needed a break.  The last two nights I had awoken to pain in my arches and the overwhelming desire to wriggle my legs in the wee hours. I had promised them I would stop in Santiago... no more carrying a backpack everyday, the choice of shoes, sitting in a bus to go to Finisterre and some quiet time to appreciate their efforts and to heal.

I'm not catholic but did want to attend the 12 noon mass for Pilgrims. I had earned my blessing!!! That meant an early morning. Pierre and I were out the door at 6:25am and were joined by Marcelo and Neel soon after.  The woods were dark and the hills, rolling.  Intermittently, we happened upon souvenir sellers and more frequently, solicitations... accommodation, tours, taxi, stamps (Pilgrim credentials) etc.

Pierre and I:  Shadows cast by the headlights of a souvenir van at 7:30am in the woods!

At one coffee stop, a mini bus pulled up out front, a woman got out and stamped the passports of 20 people, before driving off. The van was empty. I thought the Camino in itself made us better, less judgemental people, until I see stuff like this.  At the end of the day it matters little to my journey and doesn't change my accomplishment that some people "skip the boring or difficult parts", but it does make me realize 2 things: Some "pilgrims" don't want the journey, just the certificate, for whatever reason.  And secondly, I'm still the same, flawed human being I was at the beginning.  Working on being less judgemental will be a lifelong effort. Go figure! 😀

It was another gorgeous Galician day and I'll never tire of being grateful for our weather these last 2 weeks.

The first sign of Santiago was the airport at 10km. On short final, a jet cruised in just over us.  We were literally at the end of the runway! My first tears came here. So familiar.  So close to completion.  Soooo incredibly tired. Today was my big day and I was ready.

As you enter Santiago, you first walk through 5km of newer city.  People are going about their business like normal. They don't know I've walked 800km over the last 32 days. They have no time or inclination to hear about my achy feet, now healed blisters, tooth issues, sleep deprivation and fatigue. To them, I'm probably just another smelly Pilgrim.  I may have walked 2000km to get here, or just the last 10km - it doesn't matter.  And if you are a Pilgrim who didn't walk for strong personal reasons, this ambivalence could be shocking or disappointing. (After all, we live in the Facebook era... And have been trained to notice and care when people "like" our accomplishments, lunch plate, new haircut etc!)

Bagpipes played as I walked under a bridge into the old town and main square with cathedral. Those tired feet almost did a jig. It was 12 noon and the pilgrim mass was about to start.  No backpack allowed!  We stashed our packs for €2.50 near the church and hustled in.

Inside the cathedral, it was standing room only.  It was less bright and a bit cooler.  My feet were really aching and I hadn't eaten much all day, so 25 minutes later when Pierre and I both couldn't take one more minute of stone underfoot, and needed a snack and a place to sit, we snuck outside to eat chocolate in the square. Our friends joined us 30 minutes later.  They broke the news to us that the flaming incense ball had been swung. Crap!!! I needed to see that to complete my journey and it seems to be hit and miss when it happens... I'll have to go to mass again to catch it!

The afternoon, spent exploring Santiago slowly, was full of reunions. Pilgrim friends we had not seen in days, weeks or even a month, began arriving or were spotted roaming the city.  The evening culminated in a group tapas and wine event that was nothing short of chaos! Much of this city seems to be a little frenzied.  Or maybe I'm just used to sleepy Galician village villages now?

Anyway, unlike a lot of people, I already find the charm and history of Santiago compelling.  I'm looking forward to a bus tour to Finisterre and Muxia tomorrow though.  A complete change to the way I have traveled the last 4.5 weeks. Then a few days of rest and relaxation in Santiago.

I need some time to transition back to my non-Camino life. And to really take in all the events of the last few weeks....

Day 31: Ribadiso de Baixo to O Pedrouzo

Today is the first day of mixed feelings. Today I can imagine walking into Santiago, 800+ km behind me, elated... simultaneously incredibly lost and saddened at leaving behind my Camino community.  People who I met on the first night, ran into coincidently time after time until we became friends, bonded over challenges, laughter and awe.

Today, the thought of finishing brought me to tears, prematurely, for so many reasons. And yet, the walks in the woods, coffee with friends and new stuff along "the way" was exhilarating, fun and eye-opening.

Add we walked along, I noticed a studio.  Some photographer had set up shop, taking professional Pilgrim photographs... you know, "as is", with running noses, unbrushed hair and unwashed clothes.  I surprised myself and posed for one! He took my €10 and maybe I'll see a portrait in the email at some point.  LOL.  I admired the premise. Honesty. No makeup, no mirrors, no pretending. Today was the day I had planned to wash my hair and my clothes and for some sick reason I was glad he caught me before I looked less "pilgrimy"!

Pierre and I arrived in O Pedrouza  early enough to find friends and share laundry before before that coveted glass of vino tinto or two!

We rounded of the night at dinner... about 8 of us.  Lots of laughter, teasing, recalling memories of the last 4 weeks. Everyone's getting sentimental... it's not just me.

Day 30: Palas de Rei to Ribadiso de Baixo

You may or may not know, but I travel completely reliant on a couple of apps.

1. Camino Pilgrim
Sorry iPhone addicts, this one is not available to you (I don't think). With this app, you have the choice of using a pre-programmed schedule or designing your own.  I based my 31 day plan on an existing schedule, but I modify it most days to account for longer or shorter walks, stops for health/social/tourist reasons etc.

I am on track to arrive in Santiago on day 32 having taken one extra day to explore Burgos at the 2 week mark. The plan to walk another 3 days to Finisterre has been ditched in favor of a bus ride! I'm tired and don't have it in me to walk!!!

2. Weather app.
My phone came with this and while it's nothing too sophisticated, it apparently is more accurate than those other people are using... and this has resulted in several winning bets, with wine prizes!

I use the weather app to plan such things as attire, start time and distance walked.  For instance, today the app predicted showers that tapered off after 9am or 10am. So we started walking at 8:30, with rain ponchos on and planned a coffee break for an hour later... with the intention of reworking the water proof layers as needed. Perfect plan. Well executed, if I do say so myself.  (It helps that our dorm room of 6 people, all slept in!)

The hike today was typical Galicia. Rolling hills, lush green, dense forests of pine, oak, eucalyptus and chestnut. Sun filtering through, clouds mixed with blue sky, breezy but warm, birds singing, cow bells ringing.

There are a boatload more pilgrims on the trail now.  The northern route joined the Frances Camino recently, and as mentioned previously, there are many more pilgrims who started in Sarria.

Pierre and I are still walking together, although those early mornings that we bonded over, are mostly gone. Between the exhaustion and late sunrises  (8:45 am) motivation has somewhat expired. Instead, we join the trail in the dark around 7-7:30 am with headlamps. Me, with a mind full of last night's dreams (stories and colors) and him, with the song he woke up with in his head - soon to be my latest ear worm!

I have to say though, the songs are getting more age appropriate. It wasn't so long ago I was hearing "intsy wintsy spider", then "puff the magic dragon". Today I was privy to an 80's song that escapes me now.

My dreams are often Camino related, but also about home, the pets, travelling and life with Mark. Clearly I'm torn about leaving the Camino and my excitement about going home.  I miss home!

Ok, so today's hike:
The highlight was Melide, famous for its pulpo  (octopus). We partook and yes, it was very good. And it wasn't long before Marcelo found us and joined in.  I love his honesty, made even better by his English as a second language! Today's moment: "they are a little bit creepy" in reference to the octopus he was skewering. Hahaha.

After Melide it seemed easy to walk, until the last 1km! Then I hit a wall.  Exhausted. Gratefully checked into a nice, newer albergue - Los Caminantes.

OK, so just one thing if you are thinking of staying here. The showers.  Yeah, they are hot, but I should not have stopped asking questions there.  There are 2 showers in the main floor near our bedroom. Coed. They are adjoined, separated by a barely opaque plastic wall. Once inside, you have a slightly blurred view of the person in the next stall - and they, of you! I'm so over the shower setup in these relatively new places.  Did anyone stay in an albergue (or use a communal bathroom) before ok'ing the architectural plans???

Arrgghhh....
More vino tinto!

Day 29: Portomarìn to Palas de Rei

I'm making it brief. Galicia is a magical place that kinds reminds me of New Zealand and a bit of Australia! Different, I know.  You see, it has that lush green, damp quality... lots of ferns, rain and dairy cows etc. Then, up springs a eucalyptus forest! It smells like Australia.

I'm enjoying the total departure from the wide open spaces of the Messeta, the humidity and abundance of life.

I have worked out that 29 days in, I have done 1,200,000 steps. My feet are not surprised.

Just 3 days to Santiago...

Day 28: Pintìn to Portomarìn

Considering that I only slept so-so, I thought the hike went pretty well today. It was, after all, another 27km up and down the hills of Galicia.

We passed through Sarria bright and early, greeted by multitudes of Pilgrim stores. You could literally arrive here with nothing and start your Camino... and many people do! This small city is 110km from Santiago and the requirement for obtaining a Camino completion certificate is walking the last 100km, yeah, some people do that! My opinion... since you asked.... a pilgrimage is not the same as a certificate. After 4 weeks hiking village to village and trying to glean a hint of understanding about catholicism, I confess I'm at a loss to understand the religion at all. But the history, the relics, rituals and traditions fascinate me, none the less. This church was a remarkable symbol of power, money and influence in its day. Judging by the empty pews, deteriorating buildings and lack of up and coming priests, that day has passed.

I digress. The road climbed or of Sarria, winding up into the hills, 1000' or so. We followed 100 kids "on Camino" with little back packs and energetic legs fueled by junk food! I congratulated Pierre on surviving 32 years as a teacher and told him he'd leaving get extra brownie points for that at Mass in Santiago.

It was a cloudy, misty morning.  You could see the moisture - taste it, even.  Pea soup that reminded me of Nantucket.

Honestly though, we have been INCREDIBLY fortunate with the weather. Galicia is known for rain, but day after day, the damp mornings give way to sunshine, vibrant colors and long afternoon shadows. Nothing feels nicer than sun on the face, listening to birds tweet and walking dry paths.... that would otherwise be a slippery, odiferous mess of manure and clay on rock!

And then... we hit double digits! 99km to Santiago. Just 4 weeks ago it was 800+.

My smile gives me away.  Camino is hard.  The blisters have healed, feet take on 30km without complaining, teeth are back to normal and the reaction to fig over-indulgence has subsided, but I'm tired. No, exhausted. Every day a little more so. I can hike all day, but find it incredibly hard to tolerate inconsiderate roommates,  cold weather, repetitive menus or washing my own laundry, by hand, in cold water. Traipsing through Spanish villages is amazing. The lifestyle of a Pilgrim is wearing thin.  The boys were right... I'm a princess. (They called my fancy stay at the parador in León, "Dallice's Palace".)

It was lovely to arrive at Portomarìn and discover a small room with few roommates, a hot shower and washing machine! 😀