Camino de Santiago Day 1: To Orisson

I had one roommate last night.  Ben, from the UK. A very agreeable young guy who,  at the last minute,  decided to accompany his dad on the Camino. I'm afraid to say that it was I who was the "rustler" in our room.  I took a long time to settle and then needed to climb down from my bunk in the night to pee.

I almost missed breakfast too! At 7:50 AM, I woke and checked the time - Crap! That French innkeeper had been sure to emphasize that breakfast was served ONLY until 8 AM! I ran downstairs in my bare feet... the long table in her lovely kitchen was set for one. Me. I was the last guest left and fretted that I was also late to my own Camino.  She laughter good naturedly and fed me everything she had,  including it seemed,  all the food that others didn't eat before me.  I left with 2 apples and a wedge of cheese "for Camino". Told you she was good natured!

Out the door around 8:35 AM, I preceded down the cobblestoned street, over the wee bridge,  past the Cathedral and up the other side of town. Along the way pausing for the obligatory selfie and meeting my new Camino friends, Danny and Marian... who came to the rescue and took my picture instead!

Danny and Marian were no slow pokes and I enjoyed their pace. The road steep and didn't get less steep for all but 5 minutes of the 2 hour hike.

The Refuge at Orisson was 7km away and a 600 meter climb. We passed a couple of dozen pilgrims along the way.  Nobody passed us. Those training hikes at the foot of the Rockies were certainly paying off.  I felt great... Even if I was red in the face and unaccustomed to the humidity (read; feeling clammy with all the sweat that dampened my clothes! )

I couldn't actually believe it when we arrived at 10:30 AM. Hmmm... what to do for the rest of the day?

Danny and Marian decided to push on for Roncesvalles and I have to say the thought crossed my mind too. Another 18.2 km seemed doable.  After careful consideration I reminded myself why I was here.  To enjoy the journey,  to relax and unwind and specifically at this Refuge because it was highly recommended by my Camino inspiration and wise friend, Teresa. I opted to sit on the deck overlooking pastoral France, glass of wine in hand and new friends at the table. Then spent the next few hours writing,  reading,  chatting and taking pictures. When exactly was the last time I had a half day to myself and no internet!?

Evening brought everyone together for a communal dinner. A little wine,  some introductions,  lots of laughter and Basque food.

I was totally enjoying myself. So much so, I'd nearly forgotten about the promise of sharing a room with those that snore!  

Yeah... 3/6 snored. Badly. The sawing of logs and snarling like wild animals didn't begin until some time after midnight.

Let's start tomorrow's post with tonight's snoring tales! 

Saint Jean Pied-de-Port

I started the day,  bright eyed and bushy tailed in Pamplona. Breakfast at my hotel turned out to be chance encounter with a couple from New Mexico. Good peeps, enjoyable company and I'll admit, it was nice to have a conversation where I wasn't butchering someone else's language!

Next up... getting lost in the Citadel on the way to the bus station.  Hmmmm... well in my defense, no real sign posts and map on the grounds and even though I knew the direction to go in, there are all these walls (fortification of the city) that made it impossible to navigate using my homing pigeon skills.

At the bus station I met John from Iowa and had the pleasure of his company all the way to Saint Jean, as well as during my first French lunch in about 16 years!

Pilgrims, let me give you my honest opinion about the bus: Conda runs a bus 3-4x/day out of Pamplona, straight to Saint Jean. It costs €22 and runs roughly the Camino route through Zubiri, Roncesvalles and then Valearn (alternate, lower route through Pyrenees that is suggested for winter pilgrims). The road is single lane each direction, narrow and heck-of-a-winding path!

Both John and I struggled to hold breakfast down and we were sitting in the front of the bus. The driver occupied both lanes during most of the hairpin turns... And there were lots!  We past many a pilgrim along the way and got a good glimpse into what I will be like for us in the coming days.  The mountains are challenging.  Steep terrain, slippery when wet, dark in the forest even during the day. I became afraid for the first time, of what I had signed up for.

Saint Jean is every bit the picture perfect postcard town that the internet had lead me to belive it was.  Very much a Basque village at the foot of the Pyrenees. Steep streets,  gorgeous views, old and filled with character. Everything is small!

I spent the rest of the day taking pictures and checking in at the Camino pilgrim office.  Today I got the first stamp in my pilgrim passport! As well as some vital information regarding weather and being prepared with food in my pack. Apparently to only travel with snacks is fool hardy. Knowing the location of the emergency huts and being able to hold up there with plenty of food,  is important. Yeah... nothing to give me anxiety about!  <breathe...sigh>

I go to bed tonight happy to be in this clean and quiet hotel.  My hair is clean, even if most of my clothes are not. LOL tomorrow is the start of the adventure - the experience I came here for.

Still keeping an open mind...

Pamplona

I woke to the sound of furniture being hauled around on hard floors. My first thought this morning was "how rude, doesn't anyone care if I'm sleeping? "

As it turned out, it was 9am! I had slept 13 hours.

Within 15 minutes I was ready to head out for the day. Yes, when you have zero choices on what to wear and your toiletry kit contains just toothbrush, deodorant and sunscreen, it doesn't take too long to get ready. Thrusting the window open, I was prepared to see overcast sky and feel the cooler autumn temperature. Instead blue sky awaited. Unfortunately my neighbor, who I could have sworn had coughed up both of his lungs in the night, was also hanging out of his window... With his cigarette. It wasn't long before my window was closed again. :(

Realizing I had not eaten or drunk anything in almost 24 hours, I meandered toward a busier looking area of town and found a cafe where an espresso and sandwich roll cost me just €2.70.

Camino friends, this is the interesting/helpful part, for you: On my travels I began noticing shell symbols.  On walls, buildings, signs and set into the paved roads.

An easy to follow trail of these silver emblems were very reassuring.

And possibly the best find of all. .. This Caminoteca!

 Home to all things a pilgrim may have lost, forgotten or used up! Here one could purchase travel sized toilettries, first aid supplies, extra clothes, backpacks, or simply your own shell symbol by way of necklace, bracelet or backpack adornment. I chose necklace. The prices were reasonable, the staff knowledgeable pilgrims, themselves. Honestly, it would have been easier to buy most of my small stuff (hat, buff, toiletries, pants, day pack all here, instead of online over several weeks! )

Don't rely on me for directions though. ... It's somewhere near the Jesus y Mary albergue, between that famous cathedral and Castille square!

Bonus: I took the business card of a massage therapist and acupunturist for when I'm back here in 5 days. He's a kiwi too.

Matt Lachlan Earsman

Maestro de acupuntura

637 557 7271

Matt@earsman.com

I also learned that today, being Thursday, is a sort of a bargain tapas night.  Beer and food for cheap... young people just like myself will be out and about, according to my new friend at the Caminoteca. (I thanked him for his compliment and promised I would check it out.)

Then I walked the city...

Night time in Pamplona is busy. Restaurants and stores re-open after siesta. I walked until I'd read too many menus, then selected a place that was outdoors, had a string trio playing nearby and a menu in English. Mixed salad, bull stew, fresh bread, twice as much wine as I needed... and ice cream! Yeah,  I was going to sleep well again tonight.

Actually, maybe too much wine isn't the best idea in an unfamiliar city, where narrow streets all start looking the same after dark. Thank goodness for Google maps and navigation, or I might still be looking for the Hotel Eslava!

I'm in Spain - And Can Scarcely Believe It

How many people have told me that the Camino is on their list too? Lots. And lots. So for this reason you'll be reading a blog that is dotted with useful info, as well as a charming (or less than charming) "Dallice perspective".

Overnight, my United flight took me from the east coast of the US, across the ocean and into Spain. The flight was just under 6 hours... Barely enough time to get 3 hours sleep before breakfast was served and the descent commenced. At 7:15 am local time, I was awoken to "good morning! " and the sound of a 270 lb drinks cart bustling past my elbow. The flight attendant, with his dark,  flawless skin, was unreasonably chipper and he didn't even seem to notice the cabin going from dimmed to bright white - at 11:15 pm Denver time! 

Actually I think this display accurately depicts how it feels to have a night that is cut short by 6 hours and subsequently being thrust into daylight. 

Yes, 11:15 pm Denver time was just about when I realized that combining 2 flights and 2 train trips for a 24 hour journey through to Pamplona was a bad move.  The result, no doubt, of someone who was either negligent, naive or overly enthusiastic when she began travel planning! Practically speaking, I was now staring into a bathroom mirror and barely recognizing the pale face framed by unruly hair, that stared back. Note to self;  I could smile more.

Minutes later I glanced out the window on the other side of the aisle and was astonished to see Spanish terra firma so close... I touched down in Barcelona. Winds light and variable, high overcast, 60 degrees. 

Clearing passport control at 9 am with 400 other people meant it wasn't quick. My backpack, bagged in plastic by a helpful United ticket agent, was already on carousel 14. It was not crowded there and since customs was literally a non-event, I found the nearest salida/exit. See, learning Spanish already!  :)

Just outside on the concourse, I found tourist info,  got a map and brief directions and used an ATM to procure Euros. 

Downstairs to the free shuttle to terminal 2B and 10 minutes later I was queuing for a ticket on the train to Sants Estacion -The downtown Barcelona train station, where the train to Pamplona leaves from. That's another queue and another ticket of course. 

Within 30 minutes I had used my map and rudimentary knowledge of the Barcelona Metro to direct another couple of tourists! (Let's hope I got it right. LOL. I make no guarantees and you get what you pay for.)

Sants  Estacion is airport-like.  Wide open concourse with polished floors, shopping, dining, ticketing. Few places to sit.  I ordered a "multicereal" baguette. Inside, a hefty chunk of brie lay sideways with its bed fellow, the prosciutto. It afforded me a seat in the cafes dining area and I used the time to get my phone back up and running on the Spanish network. After figuring out the bathrooms cost money and not having the brain space to learn the paying and ticketing machines, I decided to wander outside for some fresh air instead. (Of course I know that emptying ones bladder and breathing air are not interchangeable in every situation,  but apparently I have physiology that allows for compromises,  so why waste it.) FYI, fresh air doesn't exist when half the Spaniards in Barcelona smoke! The view wasn't bad though.

From the train to Pamplona,  I now write. Actually,  I just woke from a short nap.  The conductor was standing over me,  asking me in Spanish if my destination was Pamplona. (I understand a lot of Spanish when I'm tired, it seems). That soothing "train on rails" rhythm could be my undoing. My eyes are HEAVY and my brain is dim. Not sure where the train goes after Pamplona, but there is a better than average chance I will find out today, if I can't hold it together a bit longer!

Update: Off the train in Pamplona, I enjoyed a mile long walk uphill to my hotel. Located just inside the old, walled part of the city, it's everything I  hoped it would be. Medieval looking... cobblestoned streets, iron balconies with baskets of flowering geraniams. Tiled rooves, steeples containing bells that ring!

A long shower and the mandatory washing of socks and underwear was followed by a short nap,  turned long nap... I'm resetting and will be up early tomorrow instead.

Tomorrow I'll explore Pamplona! :)

@ Newark.... Red wine in hand

Why I feel the need to sconder what little phone battery I have left is a mystery.  Still working on detachment I guess. Early days yet.... I'll get a handle on it! (Wine helps,  of course.)

At Caps Beer Garden with wine and this here free chocolate cookie the server just gave me.  :)

I'm keeping a notebook and thought I share todays top picks for random (crazy?) thoughts I've sentenced myself to being alone with for the next few weeks.  I can already laugh at myself a little (Again, wine helps).

After waking at 5:10 am this morning: "Must locate the broom and leave it beside the freezer before I go".

Upon realizing I left my watch at home: "Letting go is happening faster than I planned.  Well isn't that the ultimate irony for a control freak! "

Finding out my seat to Newark was in the last row, at the back, against the window: "Don't worry,  the tail section almost never falls off".

Mental note.  Use this trip and all your alone time to learn to self comfort a little better!

It's good to have goals.  :)

Ready, Set, Go!

Here it is... the final gear list, for better or worse!

Pack
Waterproof pack cover
Hiking poles and bag for them
Camelback
Hiking boots
Light shoes
3x Darn Tough socks
1x merino wool footsies
2x convertible pants
1x merino wool long underwear
3x underwear
2x sports bras
2x merino wool t-shirts
1x merino wool long sleeved top
1 set of merino wool sleeves
1 fleece hoodie
1 ultralight down vest
Waterproof jacket
Waterproof pants
Sun hat
Gloves
Headlight
Swiss army knife
Travel towel
Mini deodorant
Mini shampoo/conditioner 2in1
Mini toothpaste and toothbrush
Half bar soap in nylon mesh bag
Sunscreen
Medications - zovirax, ibuprofen, ambien, multi vitamins
Compeed
Vaseline
1/4 roll toilet paper
Lip balm with sunscreen
Phone (Camino pilgrim app, booking.com app, blogger, whats app)
Passport
Camino pilgrim credentials
Pages from Camino guide
Tiny notebook
Space pen
Credit card & debit card
Ultralight day pack

I will,  of course be reporting the usefulness of each item and what I could live without on my hike. (It will be weather dependant to a degree.)

From DIA, I'm signing off. Boarding now. Next stop Newark. Then,  good morning Barcelona!

Wish me luck!

With Under A Week To Go. ..

I have just 5 full days left in Boulder before taking to the skies next Tuesday morning.
It has weeks of planning and organizing to mostly replace myself.  One believes one leads a fairly simple life until it's game on - finding the right people with who to trust your clients, finances, house, cat plants,  tenants etc is stressful!

I write this post from Wood's Quarry. One of my happy places!  The sun is shining and despite leaving for a hike at after 9:30am, it was still cool enough to warrant a hoodie, when I started out.

So am I ready?  I guess that depends in the definition of ready.  You've followed my packing and hiking prep... but what about the mental/emotional prep? To be honest I'm not sure!

Anxiety is definitely kicking in.
Last week my coach asked me what I hoped or expected to  learn from the trip.  How did I expect it to change my life?

The answer was fairly honest,  albeit not really an answer.  I have no idea how El Camino de Santiago will change me or what will "come up" for me along the way.  I'm heading into it with few expectations and an open mind.  Let's just see what each day brings,  how I handle it and what I learn.  I'm fairly positive,  with nothing but my own thoughts for hours a day and few of the distractions I rely on here,  I'm going to have some interesting thoughts and probably won't like all of them either.

Couple of things I have committed to:

• No music, audiobooks to listen to. 
• A small notebook to jot down all my epiphanies - or simply to record emotional states, locations and info that match experiences and photos!
• Listening to other people's stories on the trail. 
• Try not to sweat the small stuff.

To Sleeve Or Not To Sleeve, THAT Is The Question

After going back and forth with half the folks giving me advice to take 2 t-shirts and one long sleeved top, and the other half of the advice erring on the side of caution and suggesting 2 long sleeves tops and one t-short,  I found my own compromise.

Imagine my surprise and delight when trolling the web and I discover sleeves for sale. Merino wool,  funky striped, full length sleeves that can be paired with any t-shirt and whipped off to reveal freckled arms at a moments notice! (Or slipped back on for sun protection.)

So.... My pack now contains 2 t-shirts, one long sleeved top and an extra set of sleeves!

The mornings are getting darker and cooler. Today was a good day to begin using gear. It was 53 degrees when I left the house.  The sun was yet to rise.  I was dressed in Camino clothes. Convertible pants, wool socks, merino wool light t-shirt, sleeves, hat....It was not cold enough for hoodie or gloves, but maybe next week.