Thursday, April 22, 2010

The Mighty Hunter!


It was a warm day and more of a work-out than both of us had anticipated. Marley (lucky dog) was able to cool off in the streams as we passed by. There were plenty of them and he didn't mind a bit that I changed his name to "Mr Filth".



Once cool enough, it was time to hunt - for a suitable rock companion.
The aim is to use surprise to stun it so it doesn't get away!!! Marley pounces!

Then stops to clear the water from his nose, in the only way he can.

Victory.
This rock is coming home with us... another 1.5 hours riding in Marley's mouth should see us there. And no, I didn't teach him this.
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A Walk In The Woods


Marley and I headed out for a couple of hours of hiking. We began at the South Boulder Trail head and headed west toward the Flatirons, aiming for the Mesa Trail which would take us to Chautauqua - in about 6 miles.

Those foothills are further than they look and it took us an hour to get to Mesa Trail.
Most of the trail was uphill and apparently I am not in the shape I thought I was!
We were never to going to make it to Chautauqua this afternoon, on time for my next client appointment.
Luckily for us, Osman was on-call for a pick-up and an hour later we pushed our sweaty and exhausted selves up the last hill to NCAR (the National Center for Atmospheric Research)and to the waiting 4-runner.
I may not be in the best shape, but was definitely not expecting to be sore for 3 days after this moderate 2.5 hour hike.
It's hard to say if my butt or ego was hurting more in the following days... Actually, it was definitely my butt!
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Sunday, March 21, 2010

These are a few of my favorite things...


Just like whiskers on kittens and brown paper packages tied up with string, I love shoes, sunshine and outdoor adventures with friends.

It was almost 60 degrees today. The ground, still thick with snow from Fridays vicious storm, sparkled and crunched as we exited the car at Bear Lake. Just perfect for my very first snow-shoeing experience!



Osman and I joined our friends Kris and Charles for a three and a half hour jaunt through the forest, up a moderately steep trail, across frozen Nymph and Dream Lakes to the heights of Emerald Lake.



The view at the top (and most of the way up) was gorgeous!



Under a bright blue sky, we paused for lunch. Sheltered by the rising peaks and well planned layers, from the sharp wind and blowing snow. Rewarded with dark chocolate almonds, PB and J sandwiches and a flask of hot chai.





Then a quick stop to commune with wildlife... Birds that not only seem unconcerned by our proximity, but that take advantage of our good nature by greedily demanding food!




Does life get any better?

Friday, February 12, 2010

Junagarh Fort


Junagarh Fort was actually quite impressive on the outside. But what was more impressive, was the inside. What a place to live this must have been! Beautifully laid out, luxurious in every way and with views of the grounds and city that were certainly more than enviable.

Every wall was hand painted with flowers, windows and doors had ornate screens, and stained glass and Chinese art abounded. But it was the murals of the life of the Maharaja that really got me. Stunning!

The Fort was dotted with friendly older Indian men who spoke some broken English. According to a notice I read, they were considered “Servants of the Fort” - free guides. Nice touch. Completely unexpected considering the handful of other city forts I now had under my belt, which made you pay for a guide upfront or spend 20 minutes trying to get rid of one that had adopted you and would later demand payment.

On two occasions one of these guides would open up locked areas of the fort, rooms not open to the public, and gesture us inside. At first we wondered why we couldn’t be seen going in or out - one made us wait inside, silently, until some other tourists passed before he would let us out!. All the while being told to take pictures of this and that, not to miss certain details or explanations of the hand-painted murals.

The Servants of the Fort reminded me of the older men working at McGuckins, (A reference to a Boulder hardware store that specializes in service). I loved to see how proud they were of their city treasure, their knowledge and their history.

Once back outside, the day had heated up and it was time for chai and a snack. Nothing like a high end restaurant, filled with a bus load of aging white tourists to break the monotony of Indian culture!!! We enjoyed it for what it was, anyway.

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Heed the Signs


Sometimes it's the little things in life that give us the most amusement. I, for one, loved the signage in India!


You know exactly what they mean though - except the "LAYsWAPERS" one!


What happens if a man tries to buy something here?


Noticing the disturbing lack of leaves on this basil plant, I have to assume it's an ongoing problem.


My favorite. Because you know they wouldn't have posted this sign unless it was a recurring issue!
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Togeter again... In the Blue City


Here we are, back together after 10 days... And it's great!

With just under a week left in India we found ourselves in Jodhpur, otherwise known as the Blue City.


Because you can never have enough of the Forts of India, we decided to pay a visit to the Jodhpur one today. Besides, it towered over our hotel, high on the rocky hill, and seeing it out the window of our room just made it more irresistible.

Away, we went, up the steep and uneven streets, breathless and hot by the time we got there at 9:30am. The entrance fee included an audio tour and the camera fee. Nice! Surprising what makes you happy at the end of the day isn’t it? We also noticed it was not yet flooded with tourists. Even better.

The Jodhpur Fort is really pretty nice. The audio tour is narrated by an older Indian gentleman, his voice is deep and smooth and tinged with a British accent. I felt full to overflowing with good, interesting information!

View over Jodhpur from the fort.

This gorgeous building is none other than the Royal Crematorium. Built of marble thin enough to let the sun light through, it also looks over Jodhpur.

The Jodhpur Fort.

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Sunset over Jodhpur


... And as the sun set over Jodhpur, it was time to collect our things and head for the train station.

 

 


From here we had a 12 hour train journey to Delhi, 14 hours in Delhi, then flights to Abu Dhabi, JFK and Denver.
Home in approximately 65 hours!

It was time, and we were ready.
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Saturday, February 06, 2010

Chapati Lessons


If I was paying more attention, I would actually have taken notes too... But this will have to do.

Using not much more than chapati flour and water, you make a dough. Flour from the back of a sweaty camel and murky well water is fine.

Grab a small handful of the dough, remove any debris or stray hairs, before going any further.

Slap and knead it into a disk, then gradually flatten into the shape of the chapati.

Cook over medium campfire heat. Making sure to stoke the fire regularly and turning when characteristic brown patches indicate this side is done. Eat while warm for best results.
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Mr Desert


Indian Model and Safari Operator all rolled into one!

Once upon a time there was a young man. A truck driver in the Thar Desert. Uneducated and not super ambitious either. While hanging with friends at some point, it was suggested to him that he might want to try a different job. Perhaps head into the nearest city, Jaisalmer, and try his hand at a business geared for tourists. They went on to suggest being a travel agent of some sort, since he would not need to have his own guest house or camels to get started.

The young man rented a small store at the base of Jaisalmer Fort, hung a sign and waited for the tourists to find him and chose his services. They didn’t. After recognizing his failing in this business he informed his friends that he was not able to make a go of it and was going back into the desert. “Have you tried meeting the incoming trains at Jaisalmer Station and selling yourself to the tourists as they come in?” his friends enquired. “That is the way to get business.”

Off he went. On entering the station and witnessing the dozens of safari operators and guest house owners harassing the tourists as they disembarked, he felt out of place. According to him, accosting people in this way just wasn’t in his nature and therefore, he once again felt the tourism business was not his calling.

A day later and quite by chance, two freelance photographers found him in his office and requested he sit for pictures. They set a time to come back the next day and he agreed to pose for them.

About 10 days later he received word that the largest cigarette company in India wanted his face on the front of the their product and all their advertising. He received a modest amount of money for this. Shortly thereafter another 4 or so large corporations also selected him - among them Coco Cola, India! He went on to make several more ad’s and took a minor role in a movie too.

One day two tourists walked by his office and noticed the cigarette ad, laminated and hanging above his desk. He sat below it. Intrigued, they came in to chat and ended up booking a camel safari with him. Within a week, their rave reviews back at their hotel had earned him another six customers. From there his business grew… just pure and simple word of mouth. The way he liked it.

In the early nineties, the Desert Festival was just getting started. One of the many competitions was the
Mr Desert contest. I gather it to have been some sort of beauty contest for men. The young man in his colorful turban, impressive Rajasthani moustache and striking green eyes won. He won four years in a row… until it was decided a change of rules was needed. They crowned him Mr Desert and granted him the lifetime title, but from that point forward decreed the winner could not enter the contest again in future years. He was instead to be a contest judge, gong forward.

The man we now only know as Mr Desert has had a thriving camel safari business of 23 years. Never once has he advertised or harassed tourists. You will find him behind the same desk in the same office he started with. The laminated advertisement, now heavily faded, still hangs behind him on the wall, but he pulls out another, in better condition for photographs if you ask. Along side it are numerous travel magazine covers, featuring him.

He won our business in the same, simple way he wins all his business…

He is recommended by pretty much every foreign guide book.
His practice is to give you info on a customized trip and a fair price. Then encourage you to go away, check out others and think about it. Come back if you are happy!
He treats his employees fairly and sends only the most experienced, English speaking ones out with his customers. Guaranteeing a successful trip, that is both great value and tremendous fun.

I, for one, highly recommend Safari Travels and Mr Desert. I would again request Mr Bangali and his trusty camel, Rocket the next time I make it to Jaisalmer. And I really do hope to return!



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Rats, Rats Everywhere


Story has it that there is a white rat living among the thousands of ordinary brown ones. If you see it you will be lucky the rest of your life and anything you wish for in the temple will come true. Most of the Indian visitors I saw at the temple (and it wasn’t crowded) were sure to mention “white rat, lucky”.


I searched everywhere... all the little cubbies and crevices...


However, I left with the same luck I came with. Since I never considered myself unlucky to start with, I am not heart-broken - but it would have been nice to see it.
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